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Once doomed by Prohibition, rye rebounds to become Maryland’s official state spirit

Eli Breitburg-Smith, head distiller and co-owner of Baltimore Spirits Company, pours rye whiskey from a barrel, Wednesday, Feb. 8, 2023, in Baltimore. Spirits have surpassed beer for U.S. market share supremacy, led by a resurgent cocktail culture — including the popularity of ready-to-drink concoctions, according to a spirits industry group. In 2022, spirits gained market share for the 13th straight year in the U.S. beverage alcohol market, with supplier sales reaching 42.1%, according to the Distilled Spirits Council of the United States. After years of steady growth, it marked the first time that spirits supplier revenues have surpassed beer, which holds a 41.9% market share, the group said. (AP Photo/Julio Cortez)
Julio Cortez
/
AP
Eli Breitburg-Smith, head distiller and co-owner of Baltimore Spirits Company, pours rye whiskey from a barrel, Wednesday, Feb. 8, 2023, in Baltimore.

The state of Maryland picked up its 24th official state symbol over the weekend. It’s one that almost died out, but has seen a great resurgence in recent years.

As of October 1st, rye whiskey is now Maryland’s official state spirit. Rye distilling in Maryland goes back to the 1700’s, but it fell out of favor because of Prohibition. That’s when farmers by and large stopped growing rye wheat — the very crop that rye whiskey must be made from at least 51% of to earn its name. As the crop itself rebounded following the end of Prohibition in 1933, rye whiskey also came back in recent years, showcasing its spicier flavor in comparison to bourbon, which still counts for the overwhelming majority of whiskey sales in the United States.

Maryland Republican state senate leader Steve Hershey — one of the sponsors of the bill designating rye as Maryland’s state spirit that passed the General Assembly this year — told WYPR in April the eventual goal is to create something similar in Maryland to Kentucky’s ‘Bourbon Trail’, a route through all that state’s famed bourbon distilleries. “We had a number of distilleries that came to us that just with this simple designation, that they will be able to promote that even more, that we can be just as successful with rye as they have been with bourbon in Kentucky,” Hershey said.

Here’s a full list of official Maryland state symbols by newest to oldest:

Symbol
Official Maryland state symbol
Year 
Spirit
Rye
2023
Paleontology Collection & Research Center
Calvert Marine Museum
2018
Exercise
Walking
2008
Dessert
Smith Island Cake
2008
Gem
Patuxtent River Stone
2004
Team Sport
Lacrosse
2004
Horse
Thoroughbred Horse
2003
Cat
Calico Cat
2001
Dinosaur
Astrodon johnstoni
1998
Drink
Milk
1998
Folk Dance
Square Dance
1994
Fossil Shell
Ecphora gardnerae
1994
Reptile
Diamondback Terrapin
1994
Crustacean
Blue Crab
1989
Boat
Skipjack
1985
Theater
Center Stage
1978
Theater - Summer
Olney Theater
1978
Insect
Baltimore Checkerspot Butterfly
1973
Fish
Rockfish
1965
Dog
Chesapeake Bay Retriever
1964
Sport
Jousting
1962
Bird
Baltimore Oriole
1947
Tree
White Oak
1941
Flower
Black-eyed Susan
1918
Matt Bush spent 14 years in public radio prior to coming to WYPR as news director in October 2022. From 2008 to 2016, he worked at Washington D.C.’s NPR affiliate, WAMU, where he was the station’s Maryland reporter. He covered the Maryland General Assembly for six years (alongside several WYPR reporters in the statehouse radio bullpen) as well as both Montgomery and Prince George’s Counties. @MattBushMD
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