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Sweet and Savory Corn

EvanProdromou, CC BY 4.0 , via Wikimedia Commons

I’m in heaven these days because we are swimming in fresh picked corn. I tend to really load up on corn on the cob during those summer months when we can get it. But Chef Jerry Pellegrino will tell you, corn on the cob is just the start… there’s so much more you can do with fresh Maryland corn. And Chef Jerry Pellegrino offers a primer on using summer corn.

BEST TYPES OF CORN:
The sweetest corn varieties are generally supersweet (sh2) types, which have higher sugar content than other types of sweet corn. Kandy Korn is a popular supersweet variety known for its exceptional sweetness and flavor. Other varieties like Honey n' Pearl (bicolor) and Sweetness (synergistic) are also known for their sweetness.

Supersweet (sh2) varieties:
These varieties, like Kandy Korn, contain the "shrunken" (sh2) gene, which increases sugar levels and slows down the conversion of sugar to starch. This results in a sweeter taste and longer shelf life.

Examples of supersweet varieties:
• Kandy Korn: A well-regarded heirloom variety known for its sweetness and tender texture.

• Honey n' Pearl: A bicolor variety that's an early supersweet and an AAS Winner.

• Sweetness (synergistic): A reliable variety with long, bicolored ears and a super sweet flavor.

• Obsession: A bicolor sweet corn known for its holding and eating qualities.

To remove corn from the cob, start by shucking the corn and removing the silk. Then, hold the cob upright in a bowl or pan and use a sharp knife to slice downward, cutting close to the cob to release the kernels. A bundt pan or a bowl with an inverted smaller bowl can help contain the kernels. Of course you can nowadays buy a kitchen device that cuts the corn kernels off the cob and preserves the cream.

LEE’S CORN CREAMER – HERE’S WHERE TO GET ONE:

CORN FRITTERS
3 cups oil for frying
1 cup sifted all-purpose flour
1 teaspoon baking powder
½ teaspoon salt
¼ teaspoon white sugar
1 large egg, lightly beaten
½ cup milk
1 tablespoon shortening, melted
16 Oz. fresh corn cut from the cob

Gather all ingredients and heat oil in a heavy pot or deep fryer to 365 degrees F (185 degrees C).

Combine flour, baking powder, salt, and sugar in a medium bowl. Beat egg, milk, and melted shortening together in a small bowl. Stir egg mixture into flour mixture. Stir in corn.

Working in batches, drop fritter batter by spoonfuls into the hot oil. Fry until golden.

Remove fritters with a slotted spoon and drain on paper towels.
Serve and enjoy!

CORN ICE CREAM

(For locally produced corn ice cream go out the Bloom’s Broom Dairy in Harford county.)

Ingredients:
2 large ears of fresh corn
8 oz whole milk (1 cup)
16 oz heavy cream (2 cups)
6 oz granulated sugar (¾ cup)
5 large egg yolks
1 teaspoon vanilla extract
⅛ teaspoon table salt

Cut the kernels from the cobs. Purée the corn in a blender or food processor until smooth. Cut the cobs in 1/2.

In a small saucepan combine 8 oz whole milk, 16 oz heavy cream and pureed corn, corn cobs and 1/2 of the sugar. Heat over medium-high until the milk is scalding, be careful not to let it boil over.

Turn off the heat, cover the pot and allow to steep for 1/2 hour. Remove the cobs from the pot and set aside. Reheat the milk mixture to scalding.

While the milk is heating, whisk together 5 large egg yolks, the remaining sugar, and ⅛ teaspoon table salt.

Whisk the scalding milk into the yolk mixture then return the entire mixture to the saucepan. Heat over medium low, stirring constantly, until the mixture thickens enough to coat the back of a wooden spoon or spatula.

Strain the custard through a mesh strainer, pressing on the corn solids to remove all the liquid, discard the solids. Stir in 1 teaspoon vanilla extract and add the cobs back to the warm custard. Cool for at least 3-4 hours or overnight.

Remove the cobs from the custard, scrape any cream clinging to the cobs back into the custard. Run in your ice cream machine according to the manufacturer's directions. Scoop the ice cream into a container, lay plastic wrap on the surface then cover the container. Freeze several hours of overnight until firm.

BERRY COBBLER WITH CORNBREAD TOPPING
Ingredients:

For the Filling:
3 ½ ounces (100 g) granulated sugar
2 tablespoons cornstarch (½ ounce;16 g)
2 teaspoons fresh lemon zest and 3 tablespoons (45 ml) juice from 1 whole lemon
¼ teaspoon ground cinnamon
Pinch kosher salt
1 3/4 pound fresh or frozen blueberries, divided (about 6 ½ cups; 787 g)

For the Topping:
1 cup all-purpose flour (4 ½ ounces; 128 g)
2/3 cup plus 1 tablespoon granulated sugar (4 3/4 ounces; 134 g), divided
½ cup fine yellow cornmeal (about 3 ounces; 82 g)
1 teaspoon Diamond Crystal kosher salt; for table salt, use half as much by volume
1 teaspoon baking powder
½ teaspoon baking soda
1 teaspoon fresh lemon zest (from 1 whole lemon)
9 tablespoons (126 g) unsalted butter melted and cooled slightly, divided
1 cup (237 ml) sour cream
1 large egg
Vanilla ice cream or whipped cream for serving

For the filling: Adjust oven rack to middle position and preheat oven to 350°F (175ºC). In a large bowl, whisk sugar, cornstarch, lemon zest, cinnamon, and salt, to combine. Add 6 cups of blueberries and the lemon juice and toss to combine; set aside.

For the topping: In a large bowl, whisk together flour, 2/3 cup sugar, cornmeal, salt, baking powder, baking soda, and lemon zest in a large bowl. In a small bowl, whisk 8 tablespoons melted butter, sour cream, and egg until smooth. Create a well in the dry ingredients. Gradually add sour cream mixture to the flour mixture, stirring until just combined.

Brush the remaining 1 tablespoon butter over the bottom and sides of a 10-inch cast iron skillet or 9- by 13- inch glass baking dish, to coat. Add the blueberry mixture to the skillet. Using a large spoon, dollop the cornbread topping over blueberries. Sprinkle with remaining 1 tablespoon sugar.

Bake until the cornbread batter spreads into an even layer and is just beginning to set, about 10 minutes. Using oven mitts, carefully remove the skillet from the oven and top the cornbread with the remaining 1/2 cup blueberries, gently pressing the blueberries into the topping. Return to the oven and continue to bake until the blueberry filling is bubbling, the cornbread topping is golden-brown, and a knife inserted into the center of the cornbread layer comes out clean, 40 to 50 minutes. If needed, cover with foil to prevent excess browning towards the end of baking.

Let cool at room temperature for 15 minutes before serving. Serve with vanilla ice cream or whipped cream.

Al Spoler, well known to WYPR listeners as the wine-loving co-host of "Cellar Notes" has had a long-standing parallel interest in cooking as well. Al has said, the moment he started getting serious about Sunday night dinners was the same moment he started getting serious about wine. Over the years, he has benefited greatly from being a member of the Cork and Fork Society of Baltimore, a gentlemen's dining club that serves black tie meals cooked by the members themselves who are some of Baltimore's most accomplished amateur cooks.
Executive Chef Jerry Pellegrino of Corks restaurant is fascinated by food and wine, and the way they work in harmony on the palate. His understanding of the two goes all the way to the molecular level, drawing on his advanced education in molecular biology. His cuisine is simple and surprising, pairing unexpected ingredients together to work with Corks' extensive wine offerings.