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Uncommon Berries

Leslie Seaton from Seattle, WA, USA, CC BY 2.0 , via Wikimedia Commons

Summertime is great for fruit, and since I try to have fruit every morning for breakfast, I’m always scouting for the best available. Which often brings me to berries, especially blue, black and razz. But Chef Jerry Pellegrino tells me there’s a lot I’m missing.

The lesser-known berries may be a little harder to find, but they are worth the effort. Here are a few that Jerry really admires.

Huckleberry - The term huckleberry has been made famous by Mark Twain's famous character Huckleberry Finn, and by the classic cartoon "Huckleberry Hound." Of course, all this begs the question: What is a huckleberry, exactly? Huckleberries bear many similarities to blueberries. They're small and round and range in color from red to blue and even black. They have noticeably larger seeds than blueberries, which can be somewhat bitter in taste.

Lingonberry - small, tart, red berries related to cranberries and blueberries, popular in Scandinavian cuisine. They are known for their unique tart flavor and are commonly used in jams, preserves, and sauces. Lingonberries are small, round berries, typically around the size of a pea. They have a vibrant, dark red color. The berries grow on low-lying, evergreen shrubs that are found in boreal forests and Arctic tundra. Lingonberries are known for their tart, slightly sweet flavor, often compared to cranberries but with a more distinct flavor.

Currents - are small, juicy, tart berries that come in various colors, including red, black, and white. They are part of the gooseberry family and are commonly used in jams, jellies, and other culinary applications. They are small, glossy berries, often described as having a tart flavor. They come in a range of colors, including black, red, and white.

Mulberries - are almost sticky-sweet, though most have an astringency and tartness to balance it. White mulberries are a little more delicate in flavor, both less sweet and less tart. They show up in June through August, depending on the variety of mulberries and the climate. They make a great ice cream; since they are so sweet the flavor came across well even in a frozen state. They are also great for galettes and pies and are a favorite for fruit wine or syrup. Use them as soon as you get them, mulberries don't last very long.

Dewberries - are closely related to blackberries, and while they can be found in the wild across much of US, they're especially common in the South. The leaves are used for tea and are often called for in holistic medicine to help with bladder inflammation and diabetes. The dewberry vine grows on creeping canes, lower to the ground than a blackberry plant. The stems have small, fine red hairs in addition to thorns. Dewberries ripen slightly earlier than blackberries.

Elderberries - are very sour with a touch of sweetness. You'll need to cook them with sweetener to make them palatable but when cooked they have a lovely floral, herbaceous, deep berry flavor. Unripe elderberries and other parts of the plant have very mild toxic properties. Even ripe berries can sometimes contain the alkaloids which will make you sick; it's best to be on the safe side and always cook or ferment them.

Ground Cherries - are a type of fruit in the nightshade family, known for their small, yellow to orange fruits encased in a papery husk. They are related to tomatoes and tomatillos. Ground cherries are often eaten fresh, used in desserts, or made into jams. While the fruit is edible, the leaves and unripe fruits are toxic.

RED CURRENT CLAFOUTIS
Ingredients

Cooking spray

Instructions:

1. Preheat the oven to 350F. Liberally grease a 9-inch round baking dish with cooking spray. Set aside.

2. In a large bowl, mix together the flour, white sugar, brown sugar and salt. Mix in the eggs and milk. Whisk until completely combined. The batter will have a few small lumps and be very thin. Allow to rest on the counter while picking off the currants from their vines.

3. Pour the batter into the baking dish. Sprinkle the currants on top, being sure to spread them out evenly. Bake for 40 to 45 minutes or until the edges are golden brown and the center is set and firm. The clafoutis will puff up slightly in the oven but will deflate as it sits--not a big deal. Garnish with a few more vines of fresh currants and dust the clafoutis with powdered sugar. Serve with whipped cream, ice cream or enjoy it all by itself.

Al Spoler, well known to WYPR listeners as the wine-loving co-host of "Cellar Notes" has had a long-standing parallel interest in cooking as well. Al has said, the moment he started getting serious about Sunday night dinners was the same moment he started getting serious about wine. Over the years, he has benefited greatly from being a member of the Cork and Fork Society of Baltimore, a gentlemen's dining club that serves black tie meals cooked by the members themselves who are some of Baltimore's most accomplished amateur cooks.
Executive Chef Jerry Pellegrino of Corks restaurant is fascinated by food and wine, and the way they work in harmony on the palate. His understanding of the two goes all the way to the molecular level, drawing on his advanced education in molecular biology. His cuisine is simple and surprising, pairing unexpected ingredients together to work with Corks' extensive wine offerings.