The phrase “gluten-free” has become thoroughly commonplace these days, but what does it mean and who should be paying attention? And if you have to pay attention to it, how do you cook around it? These are questions I think Chef Jerry Pellegrino is prepared to answer, so let’s give a listen.
Glutens are a group of proteins found in wheat, rye and barley that activate when flour is mixed with water. The glutens are sticky and they add considerable elasticity to the dough, which improves the texture of bread dramatically. Unfortunately, a small percentage of people are very sensitive to gluten and it makes them sick. This is celiac disease, essentially an autoimmune condition, and one out of every 133 Americans has it. That’s not a lot, but if you dohave celiac, you’ve got a real challenge.
Gluten is found in breads made from wheat, barley and rye? Where else? Well, there’s pasta, breakfast cereal, baked goods, crackers and believe it or not, beer. Remember: barley.
The question is, are there work-arounds? There’s no better solution than a strict avoidance of gluten containing foods. And you have to be careful, because it can pop up in things like soy sauce and salad dressings.
But can people learn to cook gluten-free? Absolutely: all our normal meats and fish are naturally gluten-free. Same for the fruits and vegetable. Non-processed dairy products are good, as are all natural raw nuts.
But how about baking? As it happens, there are a lot of good alternatives. Remember, we’re avoiding wheat, rye and barley. But that leaves quinoa, rice, corn, buckwheat and lesser known grains like amaranth, millet and sorghum. These are all available in flour form and can be used for baking. Many of them are standards at the grocery store, some you need to find ono-line.
Can you bake the same way you would with regular wheat flour? No, not entirely, but we’re not talking about anything dramatically different. Here are some tips for gluten-free baking. Measure by weight, not by the cupful. Gluten-free flours pack differently than all-purpose flour, so using a scale is better. Next, you’ll want to mix your batter longer than usual. This helps build up structure and gives the bake a better texture. Gluten-free doughs can be a bit grainy right after proofing, so you should allow the finished dough extra time to absorb moisture and smooth out.
Another thing that matters is to use plenty of liquid in your dough, and then bake your product longer than you think is necessary. This gives the flour a chance to fully absorb all the liquid and to firm up. Take it out too soon and the dough will be gummy. But let it stay in the oven, say, 20 minutes past the moment when a toothpick comes out clean and you’ll have a nice loaf.
We are left wondering, are there health benefits for the vast majority of people who don’t have celiac disease? Well, some, although let’s be clear, it’s not going to help you lose weight. What does seem to happen is you’ll feel less bloated after a meal. Gluten-free grains are higher in fiber, which is always a good thing, and they can help moderate blood-sugar levels. But be careful, because some highly processed gluten-free foods have a lot of extra sugars and starches. Not good. So read your labels and stick with standard products that are better choices.
We asked our friend Chef Denise Hererra to send us one of her favorite gluten-free recipes and we’ll put those on the website. Denise works with Burtons Grill who specialize in cooking for folks who do have allergy problems, so she’s put a lot of thought into this. In honor of Baltimore, she has produced a recipe for gluten-free crab cakes.
Crab Cakes From Burton’s Grill and Bar
We serve our crab cakes with corn and asparagus succotash and old bay fingerling potatoes. Other options include: over a spinach salad with pickled onions, tomatoes, bacon, lemon vinaigrette or with coleslaw and French fries. The choice is yours!
Makes 4 crab cakes
1 lb crabmeat - lump, super lump, or jumbo
6 Tbsp gluten-free panko
½ cup mayonnaise
1 tsp Old Bay seasoning
½ tsp lemon juice
pinch s&p
1. Mix mayonnaise, lemon juice, and seasoning together in a chilled stainless steel mixing bowl.
2. Add crabmeat into the seasoned aioli, being careful to maintain the lumps of crab.
3. Lightly fold in the panko crumbs, trying to keep the lumps of crab intact while combining ingredients.
4. Gently portion into four crab cake mounds. (This step can be done a day in advance and, if so, refrigerate.)
SEARING THE CAKES
1. Pre-heat oven to 450 degrees.
2. Take a hot cast iron pan and lightly oil. (You can heat your pan in the oven.)
3. Place crab cakes on the hot pan, be sure not to flatten. Put in the oven and cook for 6-8 minutes or until 145 degrees internal temperature. (If you prefer extra crunch, gently touch the flat side of the crab cake in panko prior to placing on the pan.)
4. Plate crab cakes, seared side down. You can ladle the mustard buerre blanc around the cab cake or serve on the side.
Tip: We use a food processor to grind the panko a little finer when using to sear the crab cakes.
Whole Grain Mustard Buerre Blanc
½ cup chardonnay
3 Tbsp lemon juice
pinch thyme - whole dried
2 Tbsp shallots - peeled
1/2 tsp kosher salt (Diamond Crystal)
1/2 Tbsp black peppercorns
1 cup heavy cream
8 oz unsalted butter
4-5 Tbsp mustard - whole grain or country grain (If you like mustard, use 5 Tbsp and
pinch sugar.)
1. Place wine, lemon juice, thyme, salt, shallot and black peppercorns in a 5 qt heavy bottom saucepan and put over medium heat.
2. Reduce liquid until caramel color and almost dry, about 8 minutes.
3. Add heavy cream and reduce until pale yellow in color, about 6-8 minutes.
4. Reduce heat to low and slowly whisk in cubed butter.
5. Once all butter is added and incorporated, turn off heat and strain sauce through a fine mesh strainer.
6. Mix in mustard and sugar with strained butter sauce.
7. Serve immediately with the crab cakes.
