There is one variety of soup that you could argue should only be eaten in winter, since it is the very picture of a hearty bowl of warm comfort. And that would be a chowder, a beloved staple of New England winter life that of course can be enjoyed anywhere… and possibly any time. And Chef Jerry Pellegrino knows this is a soup that’s good for the soul.
Chowders are thick soups that commonly feature seafood, potatoes and a creamy broth. The variations are endless, and for sure, every mother’s son swears that his mom’s recipe is the best, and only way to make it.
Given the simplicity of the humble ingredients, we suspect that this is a very old dish that probably had its origins somewhere along the European coast. Be that as it may, the idea of chowder made its way over to North America in the early 1700’s and was perfected in Canada and New England. The name by the way, probably comes from the cooking cauldron, or chaudron, in French.
Classic New England clam chowder offers us a look into its origins. The old maritime seaside gave us fresh shucked clams, although today, canned clams and their juice work well. Thick center-cut bacon recalls the salt pork that was a staple in the age of sail. Oyster crackers are a nod to the hardtack that sailors used to thicken their chowder. And cream is the defining ingredient in a traditional clam chowder.
Every New England Clam Chowder recipe I looked up was different. Some call for minced celery, some for chopped onion, some for garlic, some for plain grocery store bacon, others for the thickest bacon you can find. Some use heavy cream, some use milk and a flour-based roux for thickening. Some want plain water; others want chicken broth. You get the idea.
As you drift away from New England the major variations appear. Manhattan Clam Chowder forgoes the cream and adds tomatoes to a simple clear broth. Some perfectionists scoff at this dish, saying it’s just vegetable soup with some clam bits thrown in.
The most obvious variations rise from the choice of seafood. Rather than use clams, you could legitimately use lobster, or scallops, or a white-meat fish like cod or haddock. Here in Maryland, I would say that the rockfish has earned a place in the chowder pot. Further south, you may find people plumping for shrimp.
Many recipes suggest adding corn to the chowder, which may not be a purist policy, but makes sense to me. To take the corn idea to its logical extreme, you’ll find recipes for corn chowder and bacon with no seafood whatsoever.
As for the potatoes, waxy varieties will hold their shape better, but a russet potato will obligingly fall apart, adding thickness to the chowder.
Here’s the way I would make a Clam Chowder.
Al’s Simple Clam Chowder:
- ½ pound thick center cut bacon
- 1 cup finely diced onion
- 1 large russet potato, skinned and cut into small cubes
- 2 cups sodium-free chicken broth
- 2 cups heavy cream
- 1 can chopped clams with the juice
- ½ cup corn kernels
- Salt and pepper to taste
- ½ stick butter, cut into small cubes
- Finely chopped parsley for garnish
- Oyster crackers
Directions:
1. In a Dutch oven, gently fry the bacon until it is brown and firm. Remove the bacon and set aside. Pour off most of the bacon fat.
2. Sauté the onion in the remaining bacon fat over low heat until it is translucent and soft.
3. Add the potato cubes into the pot, along with the liquids. Bring to a boil, then reduce to a simmer. Cook for about 20 minutes.
4. Add the chopped clams and their juice to the pot along with the corn kernels. Simmer for a half hour, uncovered, allowing the broth to reduce. Add salt and pepper according to taste. Crumble the bacon and add to the chowder. Stir in the butter cubes and continue to simmer.
5. Serve in warm bowls and garnish with the chopped parsley. Serve oyster crackers on the side.
