Here in the bleak mid-winter, we Baltimoreans are lucky to have so many traditional dishes to keep us warm and happy. One dish is so closely associated with our hometown as to be known nation-wide as Baltimore-Style Sour Beef and Dumplings. As Chef Jerry Pellegrino will confirm, this is one of the tastiest and most comforting regional comfort foods that we know of.
If you’ve never had sour beef and dumplings, you should make a bee-line to the Valley View Inn or Johnny D’s, both in Parkville. Their takes on the dish are as traditional as white marble steps, but each has their own interpretation.
What we’re talking about is a hefty cut of beef, let’s say a chuck roast, that is marinated for several days and then slowly stewed in the marinade itself. What makes this Baltimore style is the length of time for the marinade…up to five days in a big old pot left on the chilly back porch; and the addition of crumbled up ginger snaps into the gravy.
In fact, it is this last touch that makes all the difference. The spicy sweetness of the ginger snaps offsets the tangy sourness of the marinade, composing a final gravy that is totally mouthwatering.
Let’s start with the meat. Chuck roast is great, but you can go with rump roast or bottom round. In my opinion, meat should not be overly trimmed of fat. A little bit is good addition to the flavor and texture of the dish.
I think it’s wise to brown the meat on all sides just to get a bit of caramelization going. And it may not be a bad idea to cut up the meat according to its natural folds and seams.
The marinade is familiar to anyone who has done a bit of pickling. Two parts of red wine vinegar, one part apple cider vinegar, and one-part strong red wine. This is the acid portion of the marinade, essential for softening and breaking down the toughness of the meat.
In addition to the liquids, you’ll be tossing in some of the familiar pickling seasonings. You can work with black peppercorns, mustard seeds, juniper berries, allspice and bay leaves.
Sear your meat and place it in the bottom of a Dutch oven. Pour in enough marinade to cover the meat, then put the lid on tight. Take it outside and put it on a convenient table and place a brick or two on top of the lid. This will keep out any opportunistic critters who know a good thing when they smell it. Many recipes suggest turning the meat a couple times, and I think that’s a good idea.
After a few days, you will pull the meat out of the marinade, and strain the liquid to remove the solids. Add some fresh pieces of carrot and onion and put it all back in the pot. Bring it to a boil, then reduce to simmer. In goes the meat, and you can keep the pot on the stove or put it in a 325° oven. After about four hours, crumble up a dozen ginger snaps as finely as you can and work them into the sauce. Stir well and continue cooking for another hour or two.
When it’s done, the meat will fall apart at the slightest touch, and it will be bathed in a luxurious rich gravy.
Baltimore style calls for you to whip up some potato dumplings and put them on the plate, swimming in the gravy. You can leave the big chunks of meat alone, or shred them with a fork. It scarcely matters.
