Of all the most popular cuts of beef, one stands above the others as the most desirable, and that would be the loin. The cut is expensive and is revered by many. But it is a much more complicated piece of beef than you might think. Chef Jerry Pellegrino explains all you need to know about this intriguing bit of meat.
This “primal cut” runs along the top of the animal’s back, gradually tapering from front to rear. At various points steaks cut from it have different names, and several major muscle groups are well known as well.
The meat, which runs just below the spine comprises essentially of the long, cylindrical tenderloin, and below the bony bone that projects from the spine, runs the strip, often cut into New York strip steaks.
The head-end part of the tenderloin is the Chateaubriand roast, a very tender and almost fatless cut. It is usually roasted. Next comes the famous filet mignon, again a very tender cut that may have less flavor than other steaks, but its texture is sensationally tender. Next comes a series of small cuts called the “tornedoes”. These little round disks are tender and often coked with bacon or lard. Finally comes the tenderloin tail or tips, a flattened piece of meat that is good for cutting up for shish-kabobs or for grilling.
If you cut the entire beef loin 90° to the spine you get a series of high-quality steaks.
At the head end, when the entire cut is at its widest, you will get the Porterhouse steak: a thick t-bone style with large portions of tenderloin and strip steak. A little further back, the steak get a bit thinner and you have the classic T-bone steak. As you move toward the rear of the cow, the tenderloin tapers out and you are left with the strip steak itself. You can have either bone-in or boneless New York strips steaks from this area.
The tenderloin cuts (called sub-primals) are always best cooked rare to no more than medium-rare. The bigger steaks can be cooked any way you choose, although today’s tastes tend toward medium-rare.
Here is a famous beef recipe that Jerry has come up with.
A CLASSIC BEEF WELLINGTON
Ingredients:
- 1 (2 lb.) center-cut beef tenderloin, trimmed
- Kosher salt
- Freshly ground black pepper
- extra-virgin olive oil, for greasing
- 2 tbsp. Dijon mustard
- 1 1/2 lb. mixed mushrooms, roughly chopped
- 1 shallot, roughly chopped
- Leaves from 1 thyme sprig
- 2 tbsp. unsalted butter
- 12 thin slices prosciutto
- all-purpose flour, for dusting
- 14 oz. frozen puff pastry, thawed
- 1 large egg, beaten
- Flaky salt, for sprinkling
Over high heat, coat the bottom of a heavy skillet with olive oil. Once pan is nearly smoking, sear tenderloin until well-browned on all sides, including the ends, about 2 minutes per side (12 minutes total). Transfer to a plate. Let cool in fridge.
Meanwhile, make duxelles: In a food processor, pulse mushrooms, shallots, and thyme until finely chopped. To skillet, add butter and melt over medium heat. Add mushroom mixture and cook until liquid has evaporated, about 25 minutes. Season with salt and pepper, then let cool in fridge.
Place plastic wrap down on a work surface, overlapping so that it’s twice the length and width of the tenderloin. Arrange the prosciutto on the plastic wrap into a rectangle that’s big enough to cover the whole tenderloin. Spread the duxelles evenly and thinly over the prosciutto.
Season tenderloin, then place it at the bottom of the prosciutto. Roll meat into prosciutto-mushroom mixture, using plastic wrap to roll tightly. Tuck ends of prosciutto as you roll, then twist ends of plastic wrap tightly into a log and transfer to fridge to chill (this helps it maintain its shape). Heat oven to 425°. Lightly flour your work surface, then spread out puff pastry and roll it into a rectangle that will cover the tenderloin (just a little bigger than the prosciutto rectangle you just made!). Remove tenderloin from plastic wrap and place on bottom of puff pastry. Brush the other three edges of the pastry with egg wash, then tightly roll beef into pastry. Once the log is fully covered in puff pastry, trim any extra pastry, then crimp edges with a fork to seal well. Wrap roll in plastic wrap to get a really tight cylinder, then chill for 20 minutes. Remove plastic wrap, then transfer roll to a foil-lined baking sheet. Brush with egg wash and sprinkle with flaky salt. Bake until pastry is golden and the center registers 120°F for medium-rare, about 40 to 45 minutes. Let rest 10 minutes before carving and serving.
