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Making Fondue

The simple mixture of corn syrup, sugar and water is brought to a boil in an antique pot on a candy stove from the 1920s.
The simple mixture of corn syrup, sugar and water is brought to a boil in an antique pot on a candy stove from the 1920s.

Not all holiday feasts have to center on platters of roasted meats or poultry. There is a simpler, and in many respects, more intimate way of dining, and it involves little more than cheese and bread. And Chef Jerry Pellegrino will tell you, fondue is one of the more sensual ways to dine, in my opinion.

Classic fondue is a simple idea that does require a fondue pot, or some sort of container that can sit overheat (a candle, a sterno can or an electric burner). You’ll need small chunks of slightly stale baguette, some very long forks, and a bottle of (ideally) white Swiss wine… or any other of your choosing.

Fondue is all about the cheese that you are melting (fondue = melted, in French).

The most popular are Emmenthaler and Gruyère, but Fontina and Gouda also work well.

You’ll want to grate the cheese fairly coarsely. A good idea is to toss the grated cheese in a bit of corn starch, which will build up the structure of the melt.

One important touch that nearly all recipes mention is rubbing the inside of the fondue pot with a clove of garlic. That hint of flavor really adds to the dish.

All this being said, it’s time to look at a few chosen recipes collected by Jerry.

Traditional Swiss Cheese Fondue
Ingredients

1 garlic clove, halved

1 pound Gruyère cheese, grated

1/2 pound Emmentaler cheese or other Swiss cheese, grated

1 cup dry white wine

1 tablespoon plus 1 teaspoon cornstarch

1 teaspoon fresh lemon juice

1 1/2 tablespoons kirsch

Freshly ground white pepper

Freshly grated nutmeg

Rub the inside of a cheese fondue pot or medium enameled cast-iron casserole with the garlic clove; discard the garlic. Combine the grated Gruyère and Emmentaler with the wine, cornstarch and lemon juice in the fondue pot and cook over moderate heat, stirring occasionally, until the cheese begins to melt, about 5 minutes. Add the kirsch and a generous pinch each of pepper and nutmeg and cook, stirring gently, until creamy and smooth, about 10 minutes; don't overcook the fondue or it will get stringy. Serve at once.

Fonduta
Ingredients

½ cup milk
½ cup heavy cream
10 ounces fontina, shredded
4 tablespoons butter
4 egg yolks
½ teaspoon freshly ground white pepper
Crusty bread, cut into ½ inch chunks

Place milk, cream and cheese in a pot and allow to stand at room temperature for 2 hours. Place butter in a fondue pan and, over medium heat, whisk in cheese and milk mixture, without allowing it to boil, a tablespoon at a time. When all the cheese has been added, remove from heat and whisk in yolks, one at time. Season with white pepper and shave white truffles over top of pot. Dip in bread and enjoy.

The following day, bring to a boil and serve in shallow bowls over toasted bread. Sprinkle with Parmigiano tableside.

Irish Blue Cheese & Lager
Ingredients

8 ounces Cashel blue cheese, crumbled

1/4 cup all-purpose flour

1/8 teaspoon cayenne pepper

1/2 teaspoon dry mustard

3/4 cup Irish lager

1/2 cup half-and-half

Coarse salt

In a medium bowl toss blue cheese, flour, cayenne and dry mustard together; set aside. Place lager and half-and-half in a fondue pot over medium-high heat; stir to combine. Bring liquid to a simmer and slowly stir in cheese mixture; continue stirring until cheese is completely melted. Season with salt. Serve immediately.

Chicken Meatballs (Ideal for dipping.)
Ingredients

1 lb. ground chicken

2 eggs

¾ cup breadcrumbs

1 tablespoon fresh parsley

4 cloves garlic, minced

½ cup grated parmesan cheese

Mix all ingredients in a large bowl by hand. Use your bare hands for the best results. Roll meatballs to about the size of a golf ball. Bake in a 350°F oven for 15 minutes or until cooked through.

Chocolate Orange Fondue
Ingredients

1 ¼ cups heavy cream

3 tablespoons freshly squeezed orange juice

12 ounces dark chocolate, chopped

1 tablespoon grated orange zest

1 teaspoon orange liqueur

Heat the cream and orange juice in a saucepan over medium heat until it starts to bubble at the edges. Remove from the heat, and immediately whisk in the chocolate, orange zest, and orange liqueur until smooth. Serve in a fondue pot over the lowest heat setting, or farthest from the heat source.

Flip the marshmallow onto a cutting board. Remove the top piece of plastic wrap and dust the marshmallow with powdered sugar. Flip it over, remove the other piece of plastic wrap and dust with powdered sugar. Cut the marshmallow into the shape of your choice and gently dust each piece completely with powdered sugar.

Al Spoler, well known to WYPR listeners as the wine-loving co-host of "Cellar Notes" has had a long-standing parallel interest in cooking as well. Al has said, the moment he started getting serious about Sunday night dinners was the same moment he started getting serious about wine. Over the years, he has benefited greatly from being a member of the Cork and Fork Society of Baltimore, a gentlemen's dining club that serves black tie meals cooked by the members themselves who are some of Baltimore's most accomplished amateur cooks.
Executive Chef Jerry Pellegrino of Corks restaurant is fascinated by food and wine, and the way they work in harmony on the palate. His understanding of the two goes all the way to the molecular level, drawing on his advanced education in molecular biology. His cuisine is simple and surprising, pairing unexpected ingredients together to work with Corks' extensive wine offerings.