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Ancient Grains

Grain from intermediate wheatgrass, or Kernza. The Land Institute is recruiting farmers to grow larger quantities of the grain for General Mills.
Dan Charles/NPR
Grain from intermediate wheatgrass, or Kernza. The Land Institute is recruiting farmers to grow larger quantities of the grain for General Mills.

During the COVID pandemic a lot of us tried our hand at baking and all around the country grocery stores were running out of flour and yeast. Well, there's more than one way to bake a loaf of bread, and more than one grain we can use. Chef Jerry Pellegrino, has dug back into history and came up with some ancient grains.

If you want to do a little reading, follow this like to an article about ancient grains: https://www.healthline.com/nutrition/ancient-grains

Virtually any grain that cam be ground into flour can make bread. It's just that some are better than others. The king is "hard wheat" which is what we are most accustomed to. But there are tons of other choices. One way of looking at the question is to ask which grains have gluten and which do not.

Grains containing gluten

wheat

spelt

khorasan

emmer

enkorn

barley triticale

rye

Gluten-free grains

Amaranth

oats

corn

millet

sorghum

quinoa

Gluten makes for a more elastic dough which is easier to make rise. Thus, a gluten-free grain will be denser. But of course bread-making is only one thing you can do with grains. Jerry shares some ideas.

Mediterranean Farro Salad

SALAD INGREDIENTS:

3 cups chicken or vegetable stock

1 cup uncooked farro, rinsed and drained

1 large cucumber, seeded and finely-diced

2/3 cup finely-diced roasted red peppers

1/2 cup finely-diced sun-dried tomatoes

1/2 cup crumbled feta cheese

half of a small red onion, finely diced (about 2/3 cup)

1/4 cup finely-chopped fresh parsley

Greek vinaigrette (see ingredients below)

Greek Vinaigrette Ingredients:

3 Tablespoons olive oil

1 Tablespoon freshly-squeezed lemon juice

1 Tablespoon red wine vinegar

1/4 teaspoon dried oregano

pinch of garlic powder

pinch of salt

pinch of black pepper

TO MAKE THE SALAD:

Stir together stock and farro in a medium saucepan, and cook according to package instructions until al dente. Remove from heat, and drain off any extra stock once the farro is cooked. Let the farro cool for at least 10 minutes.

Transfer farro to a large mixing bowl, and add in remaining ingredients, including the vinaigrette. Toss until combined. Serve immediately, or cover and refrigerate for up to 2 days.

TO MAKE THE GREEK VINAIGRETTE:

Whisk all ingredients together until combined. Use immediately.

Amaranth Mushroom ‘Risotto’

1 ounce dried porcini mushrooms (about 1 cup)

2 cups boiling water plus 2 1/2 cups cold water

6 tablespoons unsalted butter

2 tablespoons olive oil

1 large yellow onion, finely chopped (about 1 1/2 cups)

2 cups amaranth

1 1/2 teaspoons salt, or to taste

3 garlic cloves, finely chopped

1 pound sliced mushrooms (white, baby bella, cremini, or a mixture)

1 tablespoon soy sauce

3 tablespoons sherry (any type from dry to cream)

Freshly ground black pepper to taste

1 teaspoon chopped fresh thyme, or to taste

Put the dried porcini mushrooms in a heatproof bowl and pour the 2 cups of boiling water over them. Let the porcini mushrooms soak until tender, 10 to 15 minutes, then lift them from the liquid and squeeze any excess liquid into the bowl. Finely chop the porcini mushrooms. Reserve the porcini mushrooms and the liquid separately.

In a heavy 4-quart pot over moderately low heat, warm 1 tablespoon butter and 1 tablespoon oil. Add the onion and cook, covered and stirring occasionally, until tender and lightly golden, 10 to 15 minutes.

Add the amaranth and stir to coat it with the butter and oil. Slowly add the reserved porcini mushroom soaking liquid, leaving any grit at the bottom of the bowl. Add the 2 1/2 cups cold water, cover the pot, and bring the mixture to a boil, whisking occasionally. Using a heatproof rubber spatula, push any seeds clinging to the side of the pot into the liquid, then reduce the heat to low and continue to simmer, covered, until the liquid is absorbed, 20 to 25 minutes. Stir in 1 teaspoon salt, or to taste. Remove the pot from the heat and let the amaranth stand, covered, 5 to 10 minutes.

While the amaranth is simmering, in a 12-inch heavy skillet over moderate heat, melt 1 tablespoon of the remaining butter with the remaining 1 tablespoon oil. Add the garlic and cook, stirring, for 30 seconds. Add the reserved porcini mushrooms, along with the fresh sliced mushrooms, the remaining 1/2 teaspoon salt, and the soy sauce and sauté until the mushrooms are softened and juicy, 8 to 10 minutes. Add the sherry and continue to sauté until the mushrooms are tender, about 2 minutes. Season with salt and freshly ground black pepper.

Remove the pan from the heat then stir in the thyme. Cut the remaining 4 tablespoons butter into small pieces, add it to the pan, and stir until melted. Spoon the amaranth onto plates or into soup bowls and top with the mushroom mixture.

Sorghum Granola

2 cups gluten-free oats

1/2 cup sorghum (whole grain, to be popped, I use Bob's Red Mill brand)

1/2 cup pepitas

3/4 cup pecans (chopped)

1/4 tsp. salt

1 tsp. ground cinnamon

1/4 cup coconut oil (melted)

1/3 cup maple syrup (grade b, or honey, if not vegan)

1 tsp. pure vanilla extract

1 cup dried cherries (or other dried fruit)

Mix everything in a large bowl and serve with a dallop of fresh yogurt.

Al Spoler, well known to WYPR listeners as the wine-loving co-host of "Cellar Notes" has had a long-standing parallel interest in cooking as well. Al has said, the moment he started getting serious about Sunday night dinners was the same moment he started getting serious about wine. Over the years, he has benefited greatly from being a member of the Cork and Fork Society of Baltimore, a gentlemen's dining club that serves black tie meals cooked by the members themselves who are some of Baltimore's most accomplished amateur cooks.
Executive Chef Jerry Pellegrino of Corks restaurant is fascinated by food and wine, and the way they work in harmony on the palate. His understanding of the two goes all the way to the molecular level, drawing on his advanced education in molecular biology. His cuisine is simple and surprising, pairing unexpected ingredients together to work with Corks' extensive wine offerings.