One of my favorite cuisines in the world is Indian cooking. And here in Maryland we are twice fortunate: not only does our region produce a full market basket of appropriate ingredients, but there are a lot of ethnic Indian folks around who know a thing or two about curry.
So Chef Jerry Pellegrino of Schola Restaurant and I invited Radhika Sule on the show to tell us about cooking Indian in Maryland. She is the owner of The Verandah Indian Restaurant in Hampden, 842 W. 36th Street. (Phone: 410-889-0999)
A lot of what we grow in Maryland is perfectly suited for Indian cooking. Items like tomato, beans, squash, pumpkins and peppers are staples in the Indian diet. New items like asparagus, green beans, melons and zucchinis have been readily embraced as Indian cooks were quick to pick up on the possibilities.
Indian cooking starts with oil...not olive oil, but peanut or safflower oil, which have more neutral flavors and a much higher flash point. Start by heating the oil and then adding the spices which release their flavor in the heat. Each spice can be used in different ways. Sometimes raw, sometime pre-cooked. Each approach offers a nuance. Spices are often ground fresh (use either a mortar and pestle or an electric grinder dedicated to the use) or dry cooked in a hot skillet.
Radhika's favorite spices are cumin, turmeric and coriander. But there are many others to work with: cardamom, cloves, cassia bark, black pepper, nutmeg, mace, mustard seeds, fenugreek, and the royal spice, saffron. There are also dozens of pre-mixed blends like garam masala available to save you a little work. Shopping in the spice aisle of an Indian grocery can be an amazing experience.
Working out the proper combination of flavors and characteristics can take a lifetime to learn. And of course different ingredients have different affinities. One smart idea is to get a good basic Indian cookbook that is long on instruction. "The Greatest Ever Indian" cookbook has been a bible for me. (Parragon Publishing, 2004, ISBN : 1-40545-592-6) Follow the instructions and don't be frightened of making a mistake.
Many western sauces are reductions, prepared on the side and added to the dish. Olive oil is often used. But in Indian cooking, it does start with that spicy peanut oil, or the marvelous clarified butter called ghee, and then as ingredients are cooked (often in a wok or broad skillet) they contribute their juices to the blend. In both cases, balance of the elements of flavor is the goal.
Spices and herbs are easy to find, especially in Indian grocery stores or big Asian markets. Most of the other ingredients are at hand, grown by Maryland farmers. (Well... not rice and not the citrus fruits... but most of the basics are local).
Here are two recipes Radhika sent us.
Egg Curry
1/4 cup ginger/garlic paste
1/4 cup canola oil
Whole spices:
3-4 cloves
1 small bay leaf
1/2 cinnamon stick
3-4 black peppercorns
Ground Spices:
1 tbs turmeric
1 tbs cumin powder
1 tbs coriander powder
1 tsp red chili powder
1/2 tbs garam masala
1 pound diced yellow onions
1/4 cup tomato paste
4 tsp salt
2 cups water
1 cup coconut milk (optional)
12 boiled eggs, peeled and halved
fresh chopped cilantro for garnish
Directions:
1. To make the ginger/garlic paste, place equal amount is a process, using a little water if needed.
2. Heat the oil in deep pan over medium flame. Once the oil is hot, add the whole spices. Sauté for 30 seconds making sure they do not burn.
3. Add the onions, cook for two minutes, then add the ginger/garlic paste and keep stirring. Once the onions are translucent, add the tomato paste and water and mix thoroughly.
4. Add the ground spices and salt and mix well. Cook for 10 minutes over medium heat until it cooks, stirring occasionally. Add water as needed so the sauce doesn't stick to the edges.
5. Add the coconut milk to the pan and incorporate it well with the curry sauce. Cook for a few more minutes until the curry thickens. Turn off heat.
6. Gently add the halved boiled eggs to the pan, and cover with the sauce. garnish with fresh cilantro before serving with bread rolls, basmati rice or naan.
BUTTERNUT SQUASH BHARTA
Traditionally, this dish is prepared using pumpkins. Butternut squash, which is found abundantly in Maryland, is just as good.
2 lbs butternut squash, cubed
2 tbs ghee (clarified butter)
1 tsp cumin seeds
1 tsp chopped green chilies
2 cups plain yogurt, whisked
3/4 cup roasted unsalted peanuts
salt
fresh cilantro for garnish
1. Heat a deep pan, add the cubed butternut squash and a splash of water. Cover and cook the squash over medium heat until tender, but not overcooked, about 20 minutes.
2. In the meantime, heat the ghee in a small frying pan over medium heat. Once the ghee is warm, add the cumin seeds to the pan. Once they splatter, add the chopped green chilies and stir. Turn off the heat.
3. Transfer the squash to a mixing bowl, and with a fork, gently break the squash but do no mask completely. Let it cool to room temperature.
4. Coarse chop or crush the peanuts. Add the peanuts to the mixing bowl, then add the yogurt, and mix gently. Add the cumin and chilies to the mixture, and stir until well incorporated.
5. Serve cold or at room temperature, garnished with fresh cilantro.
