February 24, 2015 - Radio Kitchen - Vegetable Curries
Starting late last autumn, I began buying pumpkins and squash, cutting them up into bite-sized chunks and freezing them. And Chef Jerry Pelligrino of Waterfront Kitchen, one culinary tradition in particular knows exactly what to do with pumpkin and squash... and that would be, make a curry.
Many Indians are vegetarians, so this approach comes naturally to them. We benefit, therefore, from their experience in creating an endless multitude of tasty dishes that are very nutritious.
A brief overview: curry is the generic English word given to a wide variety of soups, stews and stir fries that use a highly seasoned oil-based sauce to marry the flavors. Nearly all curry recipes start with cooking the spices and herbs in oil, often peanut, sesame or vegetable oil. Curries also arrange the ingredients to provide harmonious flavors and subtly contrasting textures. This Winter Vegetable Curry created by David Tanis of the New York Times is a great example.
Winter Vegetable Curry
3 tbs vegetable oil or peanut oil
1/2 tsp of the following: cumin seeds, coriander seeds, turmeric
1/4 tsp cayenne
1 2" piece of ginger, grated
2 tbs minced garlic
4 small hot Asian chiles
1 large onion, diced
salt and pepper
2 tbs tomato paste
2 cups butternut squash, cut into 1" chunks
1 cup parsnips, cut into 1" chunks
1/2 pound fingerling potatoes, halved lengthwise
2 cups cauliflower florets
1 cup cooked chickpeas (reserve the liquid)
cilantro sprigs for garnish
1. In a large heavy skillet, heat oil over medium heat. When the oil becomes wavy, add the cumin and coriander seeds, and let sizzle for about 1 minute. Then add the turmeric, cayenne, ginger, garlic and chiles and stir to coat. Do not over cook.
2. Add the onion and season with salt and pepper. Cook the mixture, stirring, until the onions soften.
3. Add the tomato paste, and stir to coat the food. Add the squash, parsnips and potatoes. Salt lightly, and add the chickpea liquid to cover the vegetables. Add water if you need it. Bring the skillet to a boil, then reduce the heat, maintaining a brisk simmer. Cover and cook until the root vegetables are tender, about 15 minutes.
4. Add the cauliflower and chickpeas and stir gently to combine. Cover and continue cooking for another 5-8 minutes, until cauliflower is tender. Sample the broth and adjust seasoning. Garnish servings with a sprig of fresh cilantro.
Vegetable oil isn't the only fat you can use for curry. The sublime clarified Indian butter called "ghee" is something more people should become familiar with. It adds a sweet nutty flavor to dishes, and it has no direct counterpart in Western cooking. This recipe for a Mixed Winter Vegetable Curry was modified for Western kitchens by French-Indian food writer Beena Paradin.
Mixed Winter Vegetable Curry
2 1/2 pounds mixed winter vegetables, such as carrots, parsnips, turnips, potatoes, and cauliflower
2 tbs ghee
1 medium onion finely sliced
1 tsp sea salt
a 1" piece of ginger, cut into matchsticks
4 cloves
1/2 tsp cinnamon
14 oz. coconut milk
enough water to cover the vegetables
black pepper
1. Cut the vegetables into bite sized chunks, or florets.
2. Heat the oil in a Dutch oven, with a lid. Add the onions and salt, and cook until tender. Then add the spices and cook for one more minute.
3. Add the vegetables, and pour in two thirds of the coconut milk, then the water, covering the vegetables. Stir, bring to a boil, then reduce to a simmer. Cover the Dutch oven and cook for another 30 minutes, stirring occasionally.
4. Before serving, stir in the remaining coconut milk, and cook for two minutes. Finish with a sprinkle of black pepper and serve over basmati rice.
