Radio Kitchen

Every Tuesday morning at 8:35 WYPR listeners are treated to a tasty serving of culinary advice on "Radio Kitchen".  Hosts Al Spoler and Chef Jerry Pellegrino of Waterfront Kitchen offer up-to-date advice on the best in local ingredients, cooking techniques, recipe ideas and gadgets for the kitchen.

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#1052 - The Humble Cabbage

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August 21, 2012  #1052  The Humble Cabbage       
   
Among all the wonderful fruits and vegetables flooding our markets these days, there is one so humble that it is easy to overlook, and that is the cabbage.   Since summer time is perfect for enjoying a cold, creamy bowl of cole slaw, we thought it would be fun to talk about the humble cabbage, one of the oldest cultivated vegetables in human history.   

Cabbage leaves seem designed to be a wrap of some kind.   We think all you need to do is to blanch them in hot water to get them limp, and then stuff them with whatever you would like too wrap up...and the more creative and complex, the better.   Don't forget sauces and condiments that will make the wrap sing.

Stuffed cabbage cooked on the grill is another option.   Again, working with blanched, limp cabbage leaves, the trick is to stuff them, roll 'em up, sauce it, then wrap up the cabbage in tin foil.   Put it on a top rack in the grill and cook it slowly.

Another technique is to core a whole cabbage, parboil it until it is tender, then add the filling, and cook the whole thing on a low slow grill.

Here's a recipe that Al cooked up:

                     Al's Purple Cole Slaw
              A Radio Kitchen Original Recipe   

For the slaw:

1 /3 small purple cabbage, finely shredded
3 medium carrots, peeled and grated
one tsp minced garlic
2 tbs grated sweet onion
1/4 cup golden raisins

For the sauce:

1 cup mayonnaise (Al prefers Miracle Whip, Jerry likes Helman's)
1/4 cup apple vinegar
2 tbs white sugar
1/2 tsp salt
1 tbs celery salt

1.  Assemble the first ingredients in a large bowl and mix thoroughly.
2.  In a smaller bowl, assemble the ingredients for the sauce and mix thoroughly.   Adjust amounts so that the sauce pours freely, and tastes both sweet and tart.
3.  Pour the sauce over the cabbage mixture and toss thoroughly.   Refrigerate for at least 4 hours before serving.

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#1051 - Seven Things To Do With Melon

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August 14,2012  #1051  Seven Things To Do With Melon   
   
It being mid-summer, we are in the heart of melon season.   As of last check, we have watermelons of all kinds, cantaloupes, honeydews, Juan Canaries and Charentais available.   And don't be surprised if you see a few varieties you don't recognize:  Maryland farmers love to experiment.   Most of us are perfectly content to stick a melon in the fridge and cut off a nice cold slice...but there are a few other things you can do with a melon.   Here are some ideas:

1.  Melon and meat:  wrap up a crescent of cantaloupe or honeydew with a slice of prosciutto (of course), but you can also try pancetta and bacon.

2.  Grilled melon, particularly watermelon "steak," the seedless, firm heart of the melon:  toss it on the grill to get those great sear marks, then dress it with a sauce featuring balsamic vinegar and very thinly sliced sweet onion.

3.  Melon in salsa:  cut up your favorite melon and add it an improvised blend of fresh, summer produce from the market.

4.  Melon soup:  puree that melon, add some fresh cream, a little seasoning and a garnish of mint and you're good to go.   Of course, it is best well-chilled and a day old.

5.  Granite or sorbet:  again you're going to puree and strain that melon, and then add it to your favorite recipes for these frozen delights.

6.  Melon in curries:  many Indian recipes are perfectly happy to contain melon right along side summer squash, coconut, cut-up potatoes and green beans.   It's all about getting a balanced spectrum of flavors.

7.  Melon curd:  if you've heard of lemon curd, here is the melon version.   I have used it with Greek yogurt, and thickened a little more, it was the filling for a melon meringue pie.
                        
                                       Melon Curd

(Note:  this recipe works best when you have really ripe, intensely-flavored melons.   You may even need to let the melons over-ripen a bit, and begin to become soft.   I recommend the small French Charentais melon for this recipe.)

1/2 large melon or 1 entire smaller melon, very ripe
1/2 cup sugar
1 tbs lemon juice
pinch of salt
4 large egg yolks
1 tbs sweet butter

1.  Use half of a large melon, or an entire smaller melon.   Seed it, and slice it into crescents, then cut again, removing the rind.   Cut the flesh into smaller chunks for processing.

2.  Put the melon chunks, sugar, lemon juice and salt into a food processor, and puree thoroughly.   Add the egg yolks and puree again for about 20 seconds.

3.  Strain the puree into a glass or Pyrex bowl.   Work the strainer with a wooden spoon to force as much of the puree through as you can.   Discard the solids left behind.

4.  You will cook the puree over a larger pan of simmering, not boiling, water.   Do not let the upper bowl touch the water, or the mixture will curdle.   Whisk the puree gently but steadily, scraping down the sides occasionally.   After about 15 minutes, the puree will begin to thicken.  (If you need to, work a little corn starch in to finish the thickening.)

5.  When the puree reaches a temperature of 170 degrees, remove it from the heat.   Stir in the butter thoroughly.   It should have the consistency of Hollandaise Sauce.   Cover the bowl with plastic wrap and refrigerate over night.

Serve with yogurt, ice cream, garnished with fruit, or spread it on a hot English muffin.   Makes about a cup and a half.

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#1050 - An Abundance of Melons

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August 7, 2012  #1050  An Abundance of Melons

One of the greatest thrills of the summer is to see the incredible variety of melons that are available to us here in Maryland.   In particular, the Eastern Shore is prime melon country, and growers are constantly coming up with new varieties for our dining pleasure.  So to help our listeners, here's a scorecard to keep track of what's out there.

First of all, the melon world is divided into muskmelons and watermelons.   Muskmelons all have some sort of webbing growing across the skin.   It may be very flat, or very pronounced.   Also, in the interior of the melon there is a seed cavity.   Watermelons are invariably smooth-skinned, and have seeds scattered throughout the flesh.

In Maryland we are encountering an enormous variety of new watermelons.   The old "picnic" melon, huge, elongated and nearly too big for your fridge, is harder to find these days.   Smaller "icebox" melons predominate, and many of them are "seedless."   Of course they are nothing of the kind, but their seeds are tiny and soft and easily edible.   Much smaller "personal" melons are available, good for splitting between two people, or one hungry guy.

To pick a ripe watermelon, look for deep green color and a darker, creamy patch on the bottom.   Also, the melon should be heavy for its size.

When it comes to muskmelons, we are sitting pretty.   The smallish round "cantaloupe" is actually a muskmelon, per se, and the larger version (tan, with ridges running top to bottom) is the real cantaloupe.   The Athena melon is probably the best of these, and is usually available earlier in the summer.   The Honeydew is a popular melon, whose flesh starts green, then ripens to creamy white.  Look for melons that are tending toward yellow in the rind.   The bright yellow Juan Canary has become a staple here, and is a flavorful melon.   The orange fleshed Charentais melon is a pint-sized import from France.   Many consider it the most flavorful of all melons.   Finally, the small, oval Asian melon is catching on with its delicate mild flavor.

I buy melons according to darkness of skin, softness of the blossom end, and above all, aroma.   You may need to let a melon ripen for a few days before you eat it.   Do not put it in the fridge, as this will halt the process.   Also, as soon as you cut it, it will not ripen further.

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#1049 - Clafoutis

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July 31st, 2012     #1049 - Clafoutis

This has been a fabulous year for plums here in Maryland.  I've had a blast going to the market every week to see what's coming in next.   I've tried the yellow Shiro, the red Santa Rosa, the dusky Moyer and the early arriving Methley.   Although I love eating them right out of my hand, I must admit that I am very fond of another way of making use of seasonal pit fruits.   And here at Radio Kitchen, we think the clafoutis seems to have been invented for just this very reason.

This is a custardy-cakey concoction that makes brilliant use of cherries, plums, apricots, pears and peaches.   In fact, any version that doesn't feature cherries is actually called a "Flaugnarde," but that is not as much fun to say.

The clafoutis is a very simple dish to prepare.   You need fruit and you need the batter.   That's it.   The batter is half-way between custard and a pancake.   It's a thickish mixture of flour, eggs, milk and sugar, with a touch of vanilla and a pinch of salt.   It can be prepared by hand or in a food processor.   Give it an hour or so in the fridge to come together.

Use a 10" pyrex pie dish, or better yet, a custom designed clafoutis dish with its famous scalloped circumference.   Pour a bit of the batter into the bottom of the dish, and bake in the oven until it is firm.   Take it out, let it cool down a little, and then begin to assemble your fruit.   And don't feel compelled to use just one type of fruit.   Different varieties and colors of plums, for example, offer possibilities, as does the mix and match approach.   Then, working with plums, we will cut them in half, remove the pits, and arrange them artfully in the pie dish.   If you want to get really artsy, you can quarter the plums and have them leaning on one another in concentric rings.   

After the fruit has been arranged on the base, pour in the rest of the batter until the fruit is about 2/3 covered.   Bake in a 350 degree oven for about 45 minutes, until an inserted knife comes out clean.   Allow it to cool a few minutes, then dust with powdered sugar and serve immediately.

                Traditional Clafoutis Batter

1/2 cup all purpose flour
1/4 tsp salt
2 large eggs
2 tbs white sugar
3/4 cup milk
1 tbs melted butter
1/2 tsp vanilla extract
powdered sugar for garnish

1.  Mix all the ingredients in a food processor until thoroughly blended.  Pour into a bowl, cover and chill in a refrigerator for at least one hour.

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#1048 - Old Bay Summer

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If you haven't heard, this is the summer of Old Bay seasoning, the quintessential mélange of spices, herbs, salts and peppers that is major must-have when you're talking about steamed crabs.   Those of us who keep a can of Old Bay in their cupboard know verify well how versatile it is, and it makes me chuckle to think how often I reach for it… and how unexpectedly, too. 

If you ever tempted to make your own Old Bay, start with fine McCormick's spices and go to town.   Here's one version.

                Home Made Old Bay

Blend together:

•    1 tablespoon ground dried bay leaves
•    1 teaspoon celery salt
•    2 teaspoons kosher salt
•    1-1/2 teaspoons dry mustard
•    1-1/2 teaspoons ground black pepper
•    1 teaspoon sweet or smoked paprika
•    1 teaspoon ground celery seeds
•    1/2 teaspoon ground white pepper
•    1/2 teaspoon ground nutmeg
•    1/2 teaspoon ground ginger
•    1/4 teaspoon crushed red pepper flakes
•    1/4 teaspoon cumin
•    1/8 teaspoon ground cloves
•    1/8 teaspoon ground mace
•    1/8 teaspoon ground cardamom
•    1/8 teaspoon ground allspice

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#1047 - Carnitas

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If all goes well with your personal time management efforts, you should be able to spend a few hours a week down at the pool.   Making the poolside experience perfect is important, and along with sunscreen and good reading material, the right poolside food is really critical.   Our good friend Chef Jerry Pellegrino of Waterfront Kitchen has made an exhaustive study of poolside culture, and he has added some refinements to his approach that deserve to be widely known.   One recent discovery is the "carnita," a Mexican handheld snack that is perfect for poolside.

What you've got is a soft flour taco filled with gently cooked pulled pork, loaded with spices and sauces, garnished with fresh salad.
                 
                Simple Pork Carnitas

•    4 tablespoons seasoned salt
•    4 pounds pork butt, cut into 2-inch cubes, some but not all of the fat removed
•    1 cup water
•    1 medium onion, quartered
•    5 large garlic cloves
•    Warm tortillas, for serving
•    Salad ingredients for garnish

1.  Sprinkle the pork with the seasoned salt. Preheat the oven to 350 degrees F.         

2.  Put a roasting grate in the bottom of a roasting pan and pour 1 cup of water into the bottom of the pan. Arrange the pork on the grate and top with the onion and garlic. Cover the pan with a lid or aluminum foil.                                                                   

3.  Bake for 2 hours, then remove the cover and bake until the pork is fork tender, about 1 more hour.  When cooked through, transfer the pork to a large bowl. Shred the meat and stir in the pan juices. Serve with warm tortillas.                                           

4.  Garnish with shredded lettuce, tomatoes, avocado slices, onions, and season with your favorite hot sauces. 

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#1046 - Caramelizing Onions

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One of the most commonly encountered terms in cooking is the phrase "caramelizing," which is a sort of alchemy that converts savory ingredients into something with a touch of sweetness.   You'll hear caramelizing often when you're talking about onions,  but we feel that not all that many people actually know how to go about the process.

First of all, this is a useful technique that can be used year round, and is a welcome addition to our grilling repertoire.   Who could resist a grilled steak smothered in caramelized onions?   Carameliztion is the heating of sugar in a food until its constituent molecules break down and form an entire new set of molecules which have an entirely different set of properties.   Basically, the longer sugar is heated, the less sweetness it has and the more bitter it becomes and the darker it will become.   Any food that contains sugar is susceptible to caramelization.   Ideally, the object is to retain sweetness while achieving the richness and  tenderness that comes from cooking.   So this is not merely an exercise in sautéing onions.   It's a more involved and much slower process.

What kind of onions are best?   Well, the sweeter the better.   Tiny cippolino onions are great, as are the vidalia.   Pungent onions like the purple can be caramelized, but take a longer time.   Whichever you use, you are going to want to work with quite a few onions, as many as a half dozen.   The more, the better, because they will keep themselves moist longer.

A good way to work with the onions is to lop off the top and bottom, peel them, and then cut into very small wedges, top to bottom.   You will want a large, deep skillet to work with, and you will be using good quality olive oil for this.   Work over a medium low to medium heat.   Pour in olive oil first, and as it becomes wavy with heat, add the onions and spread them out evenly.

So how long this take?   Any recipe that says you can caramelize onions in about 10 minutes just isn't being straight with you.   The whole process should take about an hour.   And how about adding sugar?   Well, yes, adding a little sugar, say a teaspoon does help.  Also try molasses or honey.   There are also additional seasonings you can use.   Salt is very useful since it draws out water, and pepper adds to the flavor.   And at the end of the process you can deglaze the pan with a little balsamic vinegar, which will add to the flavor.

While preparing caramelized onions, you are playing a game between cooking the onions thoroughly, and not allowing them to scorch on the bottom of the skillet.   You will want to stir every five minutes or so, and do so faithfully, so it's a matter or cooking and scraping.   Add a little water if they start to scorch and stick to the bottom.

Once cooled, the caramelized onions will store in an air-tight container for several days.

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#1045 - Grilling Pizza

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With our big national holiday looming tomorrow, it's more or less a given that our national 4th of July meal will be cooked on the grill.  A lot of you will be throwing some burgers, steaks and corn on the cob onto the grill, but there is ample reason to give another American mainstay a shot.   And that would be the Pizza!   Jerry loves making pizzas for the grill and has the technique down pat.

The key is a good pizza dough.   Here's a great recipe:
           
                    Pizza Dough for the Grill

•    2 cups warm water (110°F to 115°F)
•    1 (1/4-ounce) packet active dry yeast (2 1/4 teaspoons)
•    5 cups all-purpose flour
•    1 tablespoon granulated sugar
•    1 teaspoon kosher salt
•    2 tablespoons olive oil, plus more for oiling the bowl

INSTRUCTIONS

.    Place water in the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with a hook attachment, sprinkle yeast on top, and let rest until mixture is bubbling, about 10 minutes.  Meanwhile, place flour, sugar, and salt in a large bowl and whisk to combine. Oil a second large bowl and set aside.

.    When yeast mixture is ready, add flour mixture and olive oil and mix on low until flour is moistened and dough starts to come together, about 1 minute.  Increase speed to medium low and mix until dough starts to get smooth, about 1 minute.  Increase speed to medium and mix until dough is smooth and stretches 3 to 4 inches without breaking, about 6 to 10 minutes more.

.    Transfer dough to the oiled bowl, cover with a damp towel or plastic wrap, and set in a warm place until doubled in size, about 1 hour. (The dough can also be covered and placed in the refrigerator for up to 2 days.)  Once dough has risen, punch down, shape, and grill as desired.

Jerry's technique is to roll out the dough to about 10 inches round.   It should not be thin, lest it fall through the grill.   Brush both sides with olive oil, then place on the grill over a low to medium fire.   Allow it to cook for about 10 minutes, then with a pair of broad turners, carefully flip the crust over.   Immediately fill the pie with whatever you want, then lower the grill cover.   In about 2 minutes it will be done, and you'll be enjoying hot fresh pizza made to order.

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#1044 - Gadgets for the Grill

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Grilling season is fully underway, and each year we try to shed a little more light on the subject talking about recipes, techniques or hardware.   This year, with the 4th of July looming, we thought we'd trot out some of the newest gadgets to help you through your barbecue sessions.   Oddly enough, one place you can find the latest in grilling equipment is Best Buy, which has teamed up with cooking.com to get into the gadget  business.   Check out their website at kitchen.bestbuy.com.

Here are four gadgets we like a lot:

1.  Meat Thermometer with iPhone app.   This probe is attached to a device that can link wirelessly to your iPhone.   You tell the machine what kind of meat you're cooking, what its weight is, and how done you want it.   Insert the probe, and when it hits the mark, it calls your iPhone to let you know to come and get it.   About $80.

2.  Guy Fieri Smoker Box.   A very simple, yet useful gadget to contain your favorite wood chips, especially in a gas grill.  (Check out the link at kitchen.bestbuy.com/smokerbox)   About $15.

3. Weber night time grilling light.  This extremely useful gadget clamps on to your grill, and with a flip of the switch, illuminates the theater of operations.  (Check out the link at kitchen.bestbuy.com/weberlight)  Around $30.

4.  Weber Baby Q100 Portable Gas Grill for tailgating.  This compact grill works off of small propane canisters, and with its 189 square inch cooking surface, can handle a lot  of burgers.   (Check out the link at kitchen.bestbuy.com/webergasgrill)   About $150.

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#1043 - Roll Your Own Sushi

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When it comes to eating, the world has gotten to be a pretty small place.   For example, a popular Japanese snack has become a totally familiar part of our repertoire… and that of course would be sushi.   Jerry thinks the entire key to sushi is not the raw fish (which is actually just one of many options), but the rice.   The word "sushi" can be broken into two smaller words: "su" which means rice vinegar, and "shi" which means handcraft.   The object of this manual dexterity and savory condiment is the rice, which resembles classic risotto's arborio:  a short, starchy grain that can absorb a lot of liquid.   Take the trouble to shop for a proper "japonica" sushi rice.   Nothing else really gets the job done.   

Step one in preparing the rice is to rinse it in several waters, to remove as much starch as possible.   We want grains that will not stick together but remain individual.   Next, cook the rice in a proper rice steamer.   These devices can be purchased for as low as $20 (up to over $100).   Once cooked, the rice is poured into a broad, shallow bowl, (the wooden original is called a hangiri) and fanned vigorously to cool.   The cooled rice is doused with rice wine vinegar, and then spread on the famous nori wraps.   The filled wrap is then rolled in the familiar bamboo mat.   This step may take a few tries to master, but it is actually quite easy.

In terms of accompaniments, virtually anything that is congenial with rice will work.   All manner of vegetables, even fruits are fine, as are a wide assortment of meats.   Think of chicken and rice, and you get the idea.   Additional seasonings, such as sauces also can contribute, but should be used sparingly, so as not to overwhelm the delicate flavor of the rice wine vinegar.

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