Radio Kitchen

Every Tuesday morning at 8:35 WYPR listeners are treated to a tasty serving of culinary advice on "Radio Kitchen". Hosts Al Spoler and Chef Jerry Pellegrino of Waterfront Kitchen offer up-to-date advice on the best in local ingredients, cooking techniques, recipe ideas and gadgets for the kitchen.

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#1134 - Secrets of Stir-Frying

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May 14,2013 #1134 Secrets of Stir-Frying

We Americans are great borrowers of cooking techniques from all sorts of foreign traditions. We've learned to steam our rice and veggies and melt our cheese in a fondue pot. We roll sushi like we were born to the craft, and we are comfortable making our own pasta. From Asia we learned about the wok and the art of stir-fry. We believe the stir-fry is simple but there are some nuances we should master.

First, there simply is no substitute for the wok. A western deep sided skillet may approximate the process, but the wok is purpose designed for stir-frying. The secrets are the thin steel construction and those sloping sides that direct the heat and the juicy food down to the center of the bowl. A true wok is round bottomed, and difficult to adapt to Western burners. The flat-bottomed "kahari" is better adapted for us, and is very similar. All woks need to be seasoned properly. It's best to go online to get instructions for that.

Everyone talks about stir-fry using high heat. This is a misconception. Your heat can be no higher than your oil can tolerate, so here's a good technique. Start the wok off over high heat for a minute, then back it down to medium. Add the oil to the top of the sides, in a circular motion. You will need between 1 and 3 tablespoons. Never use olive oil! It smokes too early. Peanut oil or canola oil are the hands down favorites. If things start to smoke, move the wok off heat while you reduce the heat on the burner.

Stir-fry is all about prep work. Have everything ready, and we mean everything. Oil, ingredients, sauces, and seasonings should be at hand. Once you start you shouldn't stop. Everything, including meats, should be cut into small bite-sized pieces. And each ingredient should be cut up uniformly. Meats are best cut up in thin slices, about two inches long and a 1/4" thick.

The theory is to cook things in batches, then mix them all together at the end. Do meat first, just until it browns on the outside. Remove it, and set it aside. Cook your denser vegetables first and longest. Depending on the size of your recipe you can add softer vegetables to the mix, or continue cooking in batches.

The sides of the wok are cooler than the bottom, so you can stack your partially cooked ingredients there, while you add fresh ingredients to the middle. When adding liquids, pour them down the sides, allowing them to heat up a little more slowly.

The whole point of stir-fry is to keep the food moving. The traditional utensil to accomplish this is a long handled ladle. But a long handled wooden spoon works just as well.

When it comes to sauces, there are a group of favorites: soy sauce, sesame oil, hoisin sauce, chili pepper sauce, and pre-blended stir fry sauces are handy to have. Add them at the end, once again, pouring them down the sides, then stirring the food to coat it evenly.

If you're serving your stir-fry with rice, cook the rice first. It's much easier to keep hot and tasty than the stir-fry itself. Serve that at once while it is piping hot.

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#1133 - Exotic Greens

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May 7, 2013 #1133 Exotic Greens

As we've often said that one of the best things about going to the market is discovering food you've never seen before. At this moment, in mid-Spring, the markets are bursting with all manner of salad greens, some of which are not exactly household names. Jerry has been scouting and he came back with a long list of greens that may be "foreign" to you.

Tatsoi: The small, rounded leaves of this Asian salad green have a mild, mustardlike flavor. The texture is similar to that of baby spinach, and one can be substituted for the other. Baby tatsoi is usually sold loose, but when mature, tatsoi can be purchased whole, in the shape of a rosette, and it is often cooked intact in Chinese stir-fries. Like mizuna, tatsoi is often available only at the farmers' market or specialty stores.

Frisee: (also known as chicory or curly endive) These curled leaves tinged with yellow and green are slightly bitter in taste, have a crunchy stem, and add a lot of texture. Their pale green, white, and yellow coloring is a result of the farmer shielding them from light during the growing process. Frisée is closely related to escarole.

Arugula: (the same as rocket) Possibly the best-known variety of salad green, arugula forms the basis of many a salad. Originating from the Mediterranean, this green tastes more peppery than bitter and is especially associated with Italian dishes like pesto. The edges of baby arugula aren't as defined.

Mizuna: This Japanese mustard green is typically sold as part of a premade salad mix but can be purchased loose at the farmers' market or specialty shop. Mizuna has a relatively strong, pungent flavor when compared to other salad greens, but its flavor won't dominate a dish. The smal,l jagged edges that make mizuna look like miniature oak leaves add a lot of texture.

Escarole: Related to frisée, this mildly bitter leafy green is large and crisp. Escarole is often used in recipes and is paired with beans, reflecting its popularity in Italian cuisine.

Baby beet greens: When the leaves of the beet top are young, they are tender and slightly spicy. The purplish-red veins are visually striking and can dress up any salad. When wilted, the veins become brighter in color and a little bit sweeter.

Cress: (particularly watercress) A peppery taste is characteristic of all varieties. Sold in bunches, watercress has a tough, fibrous stem and small green leaves. Be sure to wash cresses thoroughly, since they often grow in sandy ground.

Mache: (lamb's lettuce) Sometimes sold with its soil still attached, this salad green imparts a mild and slightly sweet flavor to a salad. Because of the small size of the leaves, trying to create a salad with a base of mâche can be expensive. Its leaves are also very delicate and will bruise easily, so handle with care.
(Source: Epicurious.)

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#1132 - Opening Day at the Grill

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April 30, 2013 #1132 Opening Day at the Grill

If the time has come for our beloved Orioles to be back in action, then can we safely say that our backyard grills cannot be far behind? In truth, some of us never abandon our forks and tongs, even in the dead of winter. Take for example Jerry, who's been known to shovel a path to his grill in mid-January. Here's a few sauces you can whip up for early season grilling:

Strawberry Jalapeno BBQ Sauce

Ingredients:

2 lbs Strawberries with the green removed and chopped
1 cup white onion, chopped
5 cloves garlic, chopped
2 Tablespoons Olive Oil
5 fresh Jalapenos, seeded and chopped without the seeds (you can add the seeds for a spicier sauce)
3 Tablespoon Tomato Paste
1 cup cider vinegar
2 Table spoons chili powder
1 cup dark brown sugar

Preparation:

In a large sauce pot set over medium high heat, cook the onions and garlic until translucent. Add the rest of the ingredients and bring to a boil. Simmer until the sauce thickens. Either in a blender or with an immersion blender, purée the sauce until smooth. Season with salt & pepper and refrigerate.

Southern Bourbon BBQ Sauce

Ingredients:

3 cups apple cider vinegar
1 cup Bourbon
1 onion diced
2 cloves garlic diced
2 tablespoons olive oil
1 cups brown sugar
1 ½ cups tomato purée
½ cup Worcestershire sauce
¼ cup hot sauce
Salt & black pepper

Preparation:

In a large sauce pot set over medium high heat, heat the oil and sauté the onions and garlic until they just start to brown. Remove the pot from the stove, add the Bourbon and carefully flame it to cook out the alcohol. Once the flames have died down, add all the ingredients and bring to a boil, stirring occasionally. Reduce to a simmer and cook for 15 minutes.
Remove from the heat and cool.

Chimichurri

Ingredients:

2 cups firmly packed fresh flat-leaf parsley, trimmed of thick stems
6 garlic cloves
2 tsps fresh oregano leaves (can sub 2 teaspoons dried oregano)
1/2 cup olive oil
2 Tbsp red or white wine vinegar
1 Tablespoon smoked paprika
1 teaspoon sea salt
1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
1/4 teaspoon red pepper flakes

Preparation:

1. Finely chop the parsley, fresh oregano, and garlic (or process in a food processor several pulses). Place in a small bowl.

2. Stir in the olive oil, vinegar, salt, pepper, and red pepper flakes. Adjust seasonings. Serve immediately or refrigerate. If chilled, return to room temperature before serving. Can keep for a day or two.

Lemon and Rosemary Marinade for Chicken:

Ingredients:

3 large lemons, sliced
1/3 cup fresh rosemary (3 tablespoons dried rosemary)
1/4 cup of olive or salad oil
6 cloves garlic, chopped

Preparation:

Put all the ingredients in a resealable plastic bag. Mix together well. Great for chicken. Marinate for at least 4 hours.

Brown Sugar and Espresso Rub

Ingredients:

2 cups Brown Sugar
1 cup finely ground coffee
1 tablespoon fresh thyme
1 tablespoon ground black pepper

Preparation:

Mix ingredients together in a bowl.
Rub all over meat and marinate overnight.
Rinse off rub and dry meat with a paper towel.
Grill to the desired temperature

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#1131 - Lamb and Spinach Dishes

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April 23, 2013 #1131 Lamb and Spinach Dishes

Welcome to Radio Kitchen, I'm Al Spoler. I'll make no apologies for it: two of my favorite Spring dishes are lamb and spinach, which can be enjoyed separately, but do happen to marry well together. And Chef Jerry Pelligrino of Waterfront Kitchen, I did a little research and discovered that cuisines all over the world know how to work with these ingredients.

Kashmir Lamb and Spinach curry ...India

Ingredients:

canola or peanut oil
1 1/2 lbs cubed boneless lamb
2 large yellow onions, chopped
3 garlic cloves, peeled and crushed
2 tsps each of: grated ginger, ground cumin, ground coriander, turmeric
1/2 tsp each of: ground cardamom, ground cloves, ground nutmeg
2 bay leaves
1 1/2 chicken broth
1/2 cup heavy cream
1 lb. spinach, washed and coarsely chopped

1. Heat a small amount of canola oil in a deep skillet, and cook the lamb over moderate heat, until brown. Work in batches, and set aside.

2. Add the onions, garlic and ginger to the skillet and cook for three minutes, stirring often.

3. Add the remaining spices and cook, stirring often, until spices cast off an aroma.

4. Return the lamb to the skillet, along with its juices. Add the broth and the bay leaves, bring to a boil, then reduce to simmer. Stir well, then cover and cook for 35 minutes.

5. Add the heavy cream, and stir it in well. Cover and cook for another 15 minutes.

6. Add the chopped spinach and cook until it is well wilted. Remove bay leaves and serve.

Greek Lamb and Spinach stew ...Greece

Ingredients:

2 lb. boneless lamb shoulder, trimmed of fat, cut into 1 inch cubes
1 15 oz. can diced tomatoes
1 medium sweet onion, peeled and chopped
1 tbs minced garlic
1/2 tbs Fines Herbes
salt and pepper
1 20 oz. can of cannellini beans, rinsed
1 14 oz. can artichoke hearts, cut in half
3 cups baby spinach, washed
2 tbs lemon zest

1. Mix the lamb, tomatoes, onion, garlic, and seasonings in a Dutch oven or covered casserole. Cover and cook at 250 degrees for 8 hours.

2. Mash the cannellini beans, and add them along with the artichoke hearts and spinach into the pan. Cover and cook on the stove over high heat for about 15 minutes.

3. Stir in the lemon zest and garnish with feta cheese.

Spaghetti with Ground Lamb and Spinach ...Italy
(Inspired by Clifford Wright)

Ingredients for the sauce:

olive oil
1 small onion, diced
1 1/2 lbs ground lamb
1 tbs minced garlic
1 small can tomato paste
1 small can diced tomatoes
3/4 cup dry red wine
1/2 tsp dried oregano
salt and pepper
1 1/4 pounds baby spinach, chopped
3 tbs fresh mint, chopped
1 pound spaghetti
pecorino cheese for grating and garnish

1. Using a large, deep sauce pan, heat the olive oil over moderate heat and cook the onions until translucent. Add the lamb and cook until the meat is lightly browned.

2. Add the tomato paste, tomatoes, garlic, red wine and seasonings. Cover and reduce heat to a simmer for about 10 minutes.

3. Add the spinach and mint and cook for another 15 minutes over low heat, covered.

4. Boil the spaghetti in another pot and cook until it is al dente. Drain, and pour the sauce over it, and cook for two minutes over low heat. Serve and garnish with cheese.

Afghani Lamb with Spinach ...Afghanistan

Ingredients:

2 1/2 pounds boneless leg of lamb, cut into cubes
canola or peanut oil
1 large white onion, coarsely chopped
4 tbs minced garlic
2 tsp turmeric
1/4 tsp each: nutmeg, cardamom, cinnamon
1 tsp red cayenne pepper
1 32 oz. can of chopped tomatoes, drained
1 cup rich beef broth or veal stock
1 pound fresh baby spinach, washed and drained
1/2 cup plain yogurt
1 lemon for grating
salt
1/4 cup slivered almonds, lightly roasted

1. Sear the lamb in the oil in a deep sided skillet or Dutch oven.

2. Add the onions, and sauté until translucent. Add the garlic, taking care not to burn it. Cook briefly.

3. Add the spices, and sauté everything for about 3 minutes. Stir vigorously and do not let the garlic burn. Add the tomatoes and the broth and stir well.

4. Cover the dish and bake it in a 350 oven for about 60 minutes. When it is done, the meat will fall apart at the touch of a fork.

5. When the meat is done, remove the dish from the oven, and add the spinach. Stir it well until it is wilted. Allow the stew to cool to about 120 degrees. Then add the yogurt, lemon zest, salt to taste, and sprinkle with the slivered almonds.

6. On a stove top, re-heat briefly if it has cooled too much. Otherwise serve over basmati rice.

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#1130 - All Puffed Up

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April 16, 2013 #1130 All Puffed Up

Here at Radio Kitchen we are all about creativity in cooking, and there's nothing we like more than to give you the basics of a recipe that leaves lots of leeway for your imagination. A perfect example is the soufflé, and admittedly tricky dish that once mastered can give you enormous scope for improvisation. And as Chef Jerry Pellegrino of Waterfront Kitchen is fond of saying, no matter which direction you go in, you always want to start with the same basics.

All soufflés have this in common: they have two components, an egg white mixture beaten up to great volume and fluffiness, and a flavoring base that is carefully folded into the egg whites. Since the goal is to bring the soufflé to the table all puffed up, do not despair if it falls soon after taking it out of the oven. You can successfully pop it back in and, voila, it will rise again. Here are some of Jerry's favorite recipes:

The Art of Making Soufflés

Chef Jerry Pellegrino
Waterfront Kitchen

Cheese Soufflé

2 tablespoons finely grated Parmesan cheese
1 cup whole milk
2 1/2 tablespoons unsalted butter
3 tablespoons unbleached all purpose flour
1/2 teaspoon paprika
1/2 teaspoon salt
Pinch of ground nutmeg
4 large egg yolks
5 large egg whites
1 cup (packed) coarsely grated Gruyere cheese (about 4 ounces)

Position rack in lower third of oven and preheat to 400F. Butter 6-cup (1 1/2-quart) soufflé dish. Add Parmesan cheese and tilt dish, coating bottom and sides. Warm milk in heavy small saucepan over medium-low heat until steaming.

Meanwhile, melt butter in heavy large saucepan over medium heat. Add flour and whisk until mixture begins to foam and loses raw taste, about 3 minutes (do not allow mixture to brown). Remove saucepan from heat; let stand 1 minute. Pour in warm milk, whisking until smooth. Return to heat and cook, whisking constantly until very thick, 2 to 3 minutes. Remove from heat; whisk in paprika, salt, and nutmeg. Add egg yolks 1 at a time, whisking to blend after each addition. Scrape soufflé base into large bowl. Cool to lukewarm. DO AHEAD: Can be made 2 hours ahead. Cover and let stand at room temperature.

Using electric mixer, beat egg whites in another large bowl until stiff but not dry. Fold 1/4 of whites into lukewarm or room temperature soufflé base to lighten. Fold in remaining whites in 2 additions while gradually sprinkling in Gruyere cheese. Transfer batter to prepared dish.

Place dish in oven and immediately reduce oven temperature to 375F. Bake until soufflé is puffed and golden brown on top and center moves only slightly when dish is shaken gently, about 25 minutes (do not open oven door during first 20 minutes). Serve immediately.

Frozen Lemon Soufflé

1 cup granulated sugar
1 tablespoon finely grated lemon zest plus 3/4 cup lemon juice (from 3 lemons)
8 large eggs, whites and yolks separated
1/4 teaspoon salt
2/3 cup cold heavy cream
1 1/2 cups raspberries (6 ounces)
Confectioners' sugar, for dusting

Wrap outside of a 3 1/2-cup soufflé mold or four 6-ounce ramekins with parchment, extending 2 to 3 inches above rim (it should fit snugly). Secure with tape; set aside.

In a medium saucepan, whisk together granulated sugar, lemon zest and juice, egg yolks, and salt over medium-high. Cook, whisking constantly, until mixture is thick enough to coat the back of a spoon and small bubbles form around edge of pan, about 5 minutes (do not boil). Immediately remove from heat while continuing to whisk. Pour through a fine-mesh sieve into a heatproof bowl, pressing on lemon curd with a rubber spatula.

Place plastic wrap directly against surface of curd and refrigerate until cool, about 30 minutes (or up to overnight).

In a large bowl, using an electric mixer, beat egg whites on high until stiff peaks form, 2 minutes. Gently fold egg whites into cooled lemon curd. In the same large bowl, beat cream on high until stiff peaks form, 1 to 2 minutes. Gently fold whipped cream into lemon curd mixture. Pour into mold and freeze until firm, 6 hours (or up to overnight). To serve, remove parchment, top with raspberries and dust with confectioners' sugar.

Spinach Soufflé

1 1/2 tablespoons plus 4 tablespoons softened butter, divided
3 tablespoons grated Parmesan cheese
1 lb. spinach, stemmed and chopped
2 tablespoons all-purpose flour
½ teaspoon salt
1 cup whole milk
1/8 teaspoon ground black pepper
1/8 teaspoon grated nutmeg
3 eggs, separated

Preparation:

How to make spinach soufflé:

Brush the inside of a large soufflé or deep casserole dish with 1 1/2 tablespoons of softened butter. Sprinkle the buttered surface evenly with Parmesan cheese and set aside the dish.

In a large saucepan, sauté the spinach until it wilts and the juices have evaporated. Preheat the oven to 375F. In a separate medium saucepan, melt the remaining butter over medium heat and stir in the flour and salt. Cook the flour, whisking constantly, for 30 seconds. Add the milk to the flour and cook, still whisking constantly for about 4 minutes until the mixture thickens. Add the spinach and continue cooking over medium heat for 1 minute. Season the mixture with black pepper and nutmeg.

Whisk ½ cup of the hot spinach into the egg yolks, and then add the egg yolk mixture back into the hot spinach, stirring to completely incorporate. Beat the egg whites on high speed until stiff peaks form. Stir one-third of the egg whites into the spinach, and then fold the remaining egg whites into the mixture. Spoon it into the prepared dish and bake for 30 minutes, until the soufflé is puffed up and cooked through.

Chocolate Soufflé

7 ounces finely chopped bittersweet or semisweet chocolate
4 tablespoons unsalted butter, plus for preparing the molds
1 1/2 teaspoons pure vanilla extract
3 large egg yolks
3 tablespoons warm water
1/2 cup sugar, plus 2 tablespoons
8 large egg whites, room temperature
1/2 teaspoon fresh lemon juice
Confectioners' sugar for garnish

Directions:

Brush 6 (6-ounce) ramekins with soft butter, then coat with sugar. Put the prepared ramekins in the freezer. (This can be done a day ahead.)

Set an oven rack in lower third of the oven and preheat to 400 degrees F.

Put the chocolate and butter in a medium heatproof bowl. Bring a saucepan filled with an inch or so of water to a very slow simmer; set the bowl over, but not touching the water. Stir the chocolate occasionally until melted and smooth. Remove from heat and stir in vanilla extract. Set aside.

Combine the egg yolks and warm water in the bowl of a standing mixer or large bowl and beat until frothy. Gradually add 2 tablespoons sugar, and continue beating until ribbons form, about 5 minutes. Very lightly fold the yolks into the chocolate mixture. (Rinse the bowl well, if using for beating the egg whites.)

Remove prepared ramekins from freezer. Put the egg whites in the bowl of a standing mixer, or large non-reactive bowl, add the lemon juice. Beat on medium until frothy; then gradually add the remaining 1/2 cup of sugar and increase speed to high. Beat until the whites hold a stiff but not dry peak.

Working quickly, fold about a third of the egg whites into the chocolate to lighten; then fold in remaining whites until blended. Gently ladle or spoon the soufflé mixture into the ramekins, and place on a baking sheet. (Level off the surface with a straight edge, scraping any excess mixture back into the bowl.)

Immediately bake until the soufflé rises about 1 1/2 inches from the ramekins, and the tops are touched with brown, about 18 to 20 minutes. Remove from oven, dust with confectioners' sugar and serve immediately.

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#1129 - Spring Soups

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April 9, 2013 #1129 Spring Soups

Well, we've been to the market and we've seen what's available, and now it's time to come up with some ideas of what to do with all this Springtime food. And as Chef Jerry Pellegrino of Waterfront Kitchen has observed, there are few better uses than a Springtime soup for all this great produce. Here are a few ideas we've collected:

Creamy Spring Onion Soup

Olive oil for sautéing
4 bunches spring onions, cut into 1 inch lengths, tops discarded
4 leeks, white and tender green parts thinly sliced
1 fennel bulb, sliced thinly
1 vidalia onion, peeled, quartered and sliced thinly
salt and white pepper
2 cups dry white wine
3 cups water
2 cups heavy cream
1 cup buttermilk
2 ounces softened goat cheese
2 tbs finely chopped chives

1. Heat oil in a skillet and add the scallions, leeks, fennel and onion. Cook over low heat, stirring often. Season with salt and pepper. When the vegetables are soft, add the wine and boil, reducing the liquid to a few tablespoons. Add water and cream, and cook until the vegetables are very tender.

2. Using a submersible blender, puree the mixture until it is thoroughly smooth. Check seasoning.

3. In a medium bowl, beat the softened goat cheese and the buttermilk together and stir in the chives.

4. To serve, ladle the soup into bowls while still hot, and drizzle the garnished buttermilk and goat cheese into each.

Spring Minestrone

Ingredients:

olive oil
6 spring onions, white and pale green parts chopped, tops set aside
2 large cloves of garlic, sliced thinly
1 pound fingerling potatoes, quartered
1 15 oz. can of diced tomatoes
1 quart chicken or vegetable broth
salt and pepper
1/2 pound artichoke hearts, coarsely chopped
1 15 oz. can of chickpeas
1 cup green peas
1/2 cup asparagus, ends trimmed, cut diagonally into 1 inch pieces
2 cups assorted spring greens, cut into chiffonade
2 tbs fresh pesto
grated pecorino cheese

1. Heat olive oil in a large deep skillet. Gently sauté the spring onions and garlic, taking care not to burn the garlic, about a minute. Add the cut-up potatoes and cook for an additional two minutes.

2. Add the tomatoes and their liquid and the broth to the skillet. Simmer and season with salt and pepper. Cover the skillet and cook gently for another 10 minutes.

3. Add the artichoke hearts, cook for 5 minutes, then the chickpeas and green peas, and cook for 5 more minutes while covered. Then add the asparagus, cook for 2 minutes, and finally add the salad greens and the green onion tops.

4. Turn off the heat, stir in the pesto, pour into bowls and garnish with grated cheese. Serves 6.

Lemony Spring Soup with Peas and Pearl Barley

Ingredients:

olive oil
1 sweet vidalia onion, peeled and diced
1 quart chicken stock
2 cups dry white wine
the juice of two lemons (about 1/2 cup) plus their zest (reserve half for garnish)
3 tbs fresh mint, finely chopped
2 cups pearl barley cooked in chicken broth
2 cups fresh peas
salt and white pepper to taste

1. Gently sauté the onions in olive oil until they are translucent.

2. Add the broth and wine and bring to a boil, then reduce to a simmer. Add the lemon juice and zest, a little salt and white pepper and cook for one minute over low heat.

3. Stir in the mint, the barley and the peas, and keep the soup and a gentle simmer. Check the seasoning. Serve with a garnish of lemon zest.

Lamb in Broth with Spring Vegetables

Ingredients:

olive oil
1 pound lamb shoulder, fat trimmed, cut into 1 inch cubes
salt and pepper
4 cups beef broth
1 large carrot, peeled, halved lengthwise, then cut into crescent slices
1 bunch spring onions, cleaned, ends trimmed, julienned
1 yellow squash, ends trimmed, quartered, then sliced for small pieces
1 cup fresh spring peas
bouquet garni of dried tarragon, rosemary, lavender, and thyme
1 lemon for grating

1. In a skillet, heat the olive oil, not letting it smoke. Season the trimmed, cubed lamb, and drop into the skillet. Turn the lamb frequently so all sides cook. When the lamb is slightly seared, remove it and set aside on paper towels.

2. In a medium sauce pan, bring the broth to a boil, then reduce to simmer. Drop in the bouquet garni, add the carrots and cook for four minutes, then add the other vegetables and cook until all are tender. Check for taste, and adjust seasoning.

3. Divide the lamb pieces among four soup bowls (a shallow, clear glass bowl makes the best presentation), then ladle the soup and vegetables. Garnish each with a few passes of grated lemon zest.

Promotion: The National Drink Local Wine National Conference is being held April 13th at the Tremont Suites Hotel and Camden Yards. For more info Google "Drink Local Wine" and you can learn all about the event.

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#1128 - Hot Off The Griddle

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April 2, 2013 #1128   Hot Off The Griddle

In the last three weeks I seem to have inadvertently been chowing down on griddle food, and I don't know why, except that it tastes good.   I've breakfasted on pancakes, dined on crepes, and enjoyed a syrupy waffle for dessert.   As it happens, Chef Jerry Pellegrino of Waterfront Kitchen is thinking along the same lines.

All three forms of these delicious griddle cakes are based on a flour batter, augmented with eggs and milk. In Europe, it's common to find darker buckwheat flour used in making the savory crepe known as a galette, along with the white flour version we are all familiar with. Add a little leavening to the batter and you cross over into the American traditions of pancakes. Add leavening and a lot more egg and you have the basis for the waffle, perfected in Germany and Belgium. Generally speaking, crepes are totally flimsy, pancakes are thicker though still floppy, and waffles are light and airy but rather rigid once formed in the waffle iron's mold.

If you are making a breakfast version of these dishes, you'll probably add a little sugar to the blend. If you're going savory, you'll have very little sugar, and probably a bit more salt and pepper.

Basic Crepe Recipe

Ingredients:

4 eggs lightly beaten
1 1/3 cups milk
2 tbs melted butter
1 cup all-purpose flour
2 tbs white sugar
1/2 tsp salt

1. In a large bowl, whisk together eggs, milk, melted butter, flour sugar and salt until it is smooth.

2. Warm a medium sized skillet or crepe pan over medium heat. Grease the pan with a small amount of butter or canola oil. Using a serving spoon, ladle about three tablespoons of batter onto the skillet, tilting it so the batter spreads evenly. Cook 1 to 2 minutes per side, until golden brown.

Classic Pancake Recipe

Ingredients:

1 ½ cups all purpose flour
3 ½ teaspoons baking powder
1 teaspoon salt
1 tablespoon sugar
1 ¼ cups milk
1 egg, beaten
3 tablespoons butter, melted

Mix all the ingredients together in a large bowl.
Pour about ¼ cup of batter onto a hot, greased griddle and brown on both sides.

Classic Waffle Recipe

Ingredients:

2 cups all-purpose flour
1/2 teaspoon baking soda 
1 teaspoon baking powder 
1 teaspoon salt 
3 tablespoons sugar 
3 whole eggs, beaten 
2 tablespoons unsalted butter, melted 
2 cups buttermilk, room temperature

Blend all the ingredients and beat well until smooth.

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#1127 - Preview of Spring with Regina McCarthy

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March 26, 2013 #1127   Preview of Spring with Regina McCarthy

I think a lot of us are chomping at the bit, eager to get back into the game of shopping for locally grown produce.   Spring is when it all starts, and very soon we will be awash in the first harvest of the year.   Which is why we invited our friend Regina McCarthy from the CSA Friends and Farms to be with us today.   Regina is keeping track of food items that are coming on-line in the early Spring.

1. Root vegetables are still available, along with the other winter staples such as pork, apples and potatoes.   Fresh cod fish from the North Atlantic is also in good supply and is fun to work with.

2. Salad greens will be among the first fresh produce to arrive.   Many farmers are getting a jump on the season by using hoop houses, high tunnels or greenhouses to start veggies in mid-Winter.   Look for lettuces, exotic greens like arugula, rocket, mustard greens as well as early herbs and micro-greens.

3. Spinach, asparagus and peas are all early arrivals in the spring.   Look for tender examples, bursting with freshness and color.   If they should look tired or dried out, pass on them.   Asparagus will be arriving in three different thicknesses, so realize that the fatter the stalk, the longer the cooking time.   Spinach on the other hand, can be sautéed in the water you rinse it off in, and will wilt under heat.   The secret is to cook it quickly and then stop.

4. Although strawberries will be arriving, some farmers are forcing berries under cover.   So look for raspberries, blackberries and blue berries that have gotten a significant jump on the growing season.

5. Later winter cheese is quite high in natural fats, as the cows, goats and sheep are eating a lot of hay.   Shepherd's Manor Creamery in New Windsor is releasing some extraordinary sheep's milk cheese - that is a first for Maryland.

For more information about Friends and Farms year-round CSA, go to their website: www.friendsandfarms.com.   You can learn about their weekly baskets of fresh, locally produced food, and where you can pick it up.   You can sign up online and get started supporting our local farmers.

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#1126 - Dips and Spreads

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March 19, 3013 #1126 DIPS AND SPREADS

For those of us who do a fair amount of casual entertaining, it's good to have an arsenal of easy to prepare dishes that we can serve as a snack or as hors d'oeuvre. Some of the easiest and most creative ideas involve dips and spreads, and the wide gamut of foods you can dip with and spread upon. And Chef Jerry Pellegrino of Waterfront Kitchen, has given us some tasty tips.

Oyster Dip

1 pint oysters and their liquor
2 cups heavy cream
2 cups cream cheese, at room temperature
1 teaspoon Worcestershire sauce
Salt and Tabasco to taste

In a sauce pot set over medium heat bring the oysters, their liquor and the heavy cream to a boil. Reduce the heat and bring the mixture to a simmer.

Fish out the oysters with a slotted spoon and simmer the liquid until it is reduced by half.

In a Kitchen aide fitted with the creaming paddle, whip the cream cheese until light and fluffy.

Chop the oysters.

Add the chopped oysters and reduced cream mixture to the softened cream cheese. Add the Worcestershire, season with salt and Tabasco and gently fold all the ingredients together until just combined. Serve immediately.

Edamame Hummus

½ pound frozen shelled edamame (green soy beans), about 1 1/2 cups
¼ cup tahini
1/2 teaspoon freshly grated lemon zest
1 lemon, juiced
1 clove garlic, smashed
¼ teaspoon ground coriander
3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
Salt and Tabasco to taste

Directions:

Boil the beans in salted water for 4 to 5 minutes, or microwave, covered, for 2 to 3 minutes.

Combine all the ingredients in a food processor fitted with the chopping blade.

Purée the ingredients until you reach the desired consistency. If you like it very smooth, you may need to add a little more olive oil.

Refrigerate for at least one hour.

Serve cold with vegetables or warm pita bread.

White Bean and Red Pepper Dip

Ingredients

1 lb of canned cannellini beans, drained and rinsed
8 oz. of roasted red peppers, roughly chopped
4 cloves garlic
2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice
¼ cup olive oil, plus extra if needed
3 Tablespoons Balsamic Vinegar
¼ cup fresh Italian parsley leaves
6 basil leaves
Kosher salt & ground black pepper

Directions:

Combine all the ingredients in a food processor fitted with the chopping blade.

Purée the ingredients until you reach the desired consistency. If you like it very smooth, you may need to add a little more olive oil.

Season with salt and pepper.

Refrigerate for at least one hour.

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#1125 - Shallots

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March 12, 2013   #1125   Shallots

Years ago, I was taking a cooking class down at the Tilghman Island Inn, and Chef David McCallum said one of his favorite secret ingredients was a jar of minced shallots.   He would throw them into nearly every savory dish he made to give it that little "professional" touch as he put it.   Chef Jerry Pellegrino of The Waterfront Kitchen agrees, he may have been onto something there.

Shallots are the mildest members of the onion family. Their flavor is quite similar to an onion, but milder and sweeter. There is also a reference to the garlic bulb in their makeup. Shallots are widely available and inexpensive. The one we often see is ruddy brown in color, but there is a pink-skinned, smaller variety that is prized by cooks. In either case, the bulb, which is the same size as the giant elephant garlic bulb, is covered in papery skin. Peel that off and you find two bulbs within.

Shallots cook easily, maintain their flavor, and thus are a joy to work with. Chef McCallum would finely mince the shallots, and store them in olive oil, and keep them in the fridge. But they are fine raw, and can dress up a salad very nicely. The small circular rings of a sliced shallot are quite attractive.

Shallots really shine in sauces. The simplest, well known to oyster lovers, is the mignonette sauce: an easy to prepare blend of red wine vinegar, black pepper and minced shallots. Steak lovers know both the Béarnaise sauce and the Bordelaise sauce. Béarnaise is essentially hollandaise, acidified with a vinegar, shallot and tarragon reduction. Bordelaise sauce features cabernet sauvignon, beef stock and diced shallots. You reduce it, along with seasonings, and you have a marvelous accompaniment to roast beef.

Shallots are also a fine, and unusual side dish. One easy approach is to braise them in butter, red wine and cognac...a slow cooking adventure that yields tender, delicately flavored shallots in a caramelized glory.

Shallots are also ideal companions to other ingredients. You can mix them in with potatoes, Brussels sprouts, or a mélange of roasted root vegetables. Great idea!

It may be that shallots are a victim of their own modesty.   They don't scream like garlic or make you weep like an onion.   But, these well behaved little alliums clearly deserve a place in our kitchens.   Here's a recipe for braised shallots.

                     Braised Shallots
        (Adapted from Molly Stevens' "All About Braising")

12 ounces fresh shallots, all the same size
1 1/2 tbs unsalted butter
kosher salt and freshly ground pepper
2 tbs Cognac
1/2 cup dry red wine
1 1/2 tsp chopped fresh thyme

1. Peel and trim the shallots, and divide larger bulbs into two.

2. Melt the butter in medium skillet over medium-high heat. Add the shallots, season with salt and pepper, and toss to coat. Sauté them, tossing frequently until they begin to brown. Add the Cognac, and cause it to flame. Simmer until only a glaze remains on the bottom of the pan.

3. Add the wine and one teaspoon of thyme, and simmer, covering the pan. Continue until the shallots are soft, and close to falling apart, about 30 minutes. If the pan starts to dry out, add more wine.

4. When they are cooked, uncover the pan, reduce the liquid, and toss to coat the shallots. Adjust the seasoning and serve.

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