Radio Kitchen

Wintertime is that portion of the year when our dedication to eating locally can clash with our need for fresh, nutritious produce.   I for one have no qualms about buying fresh, out-of-state vegetables during the winter, but I don't intend to abandon our local growers entirely.   Although much of our farmland is non-productive during the winter, there is still a surprising flow of salad greens. This is made possible by the use of old fashioned greenhouses (translucent surface with artificial heat), high tunnels (translucent surface, passive heat) and hoop houses (translucent plastic surface draped over big semicircular "hoops").

We have a large number of farms growing this way including Gardners Gourmet, Chesepeake Greenhouse,  Cottingham Farm, Hummingbird Farm, and Jerry's favorite, Big City Farms, to name a few.   During winter months, the naturally cooler air is very congenial for salad greens:  arugula, escarole, radicchio, mustard greens, beets and beet greens, fennel, spinach, mache and rocket all do well.   Because the water economy of the plants are different in winter, the flavors are more intense and less diluted.   And this is the backbone of the winter salad:  darker, more pungent greens; more cooked vegetables included; and stronger flavored dressings.

Such things as baby beets are in great supply, along with onions and root vegetables such as carrots and parsnips.   It's also a great time to use pickled vegetables:  asparagus, peppers, shallots, cucumbers, and gherkins.   Nuts are a good component:  walnuts, pecans, and hazelnuts in particular.   Grated cheese, or crumbled cheese is wonderful, with the hard Italian cheeses, and blue cheeses being particularly good for winter salads.   Finally, don't forget that cured meats can also be used:  prosciutto, salami, and pates.  Here is a recipe inspried by our friends down at the Tilghman Island Inn.

                Tiglhman Island Inn Winter Salad

assorted winter salad greens
4 pears, peeled, seeded and quartered
1 dozen baby beets, peeled, cut in half lengthwise
2 ounces prosciutto ham
crumbled goat cheese
candied pecan halves

For the dressing:
4 ounces virgin olive oil
4 ounces red wine vinegar
2 ounces orange juice
1 tsp brown mustard
salt and pepper to taste

1.  Wash the salad greens, and dry thoroughly.   Keep in a cool place.

2.  Place the pear and beet section on a cookie sheet, and drizzle a little olive oil on them.   Bake in a 350 oven.  After about 10 minutes, cover the pears with slices of prosciutto, and continue baking for another 5 minutes.

3.  Make the dressing by whisking the ingredients together in a bowl.  Set aside.

4.  Assemble the salad by piling a serving of greens in the middle of the plate, and arrange 4 prosciutto wrapped pear slices around the compass points, interspersed with the beet sections.   Drizzle the dressing on the salad and garnish with the crumbled goat cheese and pecans.

Two things about the month of January:  we're all more or less broke after the holidays, and it's just a tad nippy outside.   So it's natural to turn our attention to big satisfyingly hot dishes that are easy on the wallet.   And few items fit the bill like a good old fashioned pot roast.

So, which cuts are best?   Well, look for cheap, gristly, fatty chunks of beef such as chuck roast, brisket, rump roast, arm or shoulder roast.   The connective tissue will melt down during cooking, and give you better flavor, and improve the texture as the collagens break down and give a lip-smacking substance to the sauce.   Prepare the roast by flouring it, and then searing gently in a cast iron skillet.   This is vital.   Once you start braising it, it will not brown, so do it at the top.   For cooking, use a deep bottomed heavy skillet or Dutch oven with a tight fitting lid - cast iron is best.   A sheet of tinfoil placed under the lid can help with a tight seal.   Prepare a braising broth:  mix a mirepoix and sautee it in the bottom of the skillet.   Add beef broth, beer, or wine.   Do not add too much!   You are not stewing the meat, you are cooking with flavored steam, essentially.   A cup or cup and a half is good to start.   Have more standing by to top it up.

Consider preparing a bouquet garni, a mixture of herbs in a cheesecloth bag that can be dropped into the broth for added flavor.  Bring to a boil, then reduce heat.

This is classic slow cooking, so you can do it over low heat, even better in a low 325 degree oven.   Plan on letting it go for 3 hours or so.   No need to turn the meat.   The tight lid allows the steam to condense and fall back on the meat, in essence basting it.   Keep it closed for most of the time.

You can add vegetables like carrots and potatoes late in the process, if there is room in your skillet.   They'll take about 45 minutes to cook through.   Consider cutting things into uniform pieces to hasten cooking time, and to insure uniform doneness.
Here's nice recipe for Italian Pot Roast:


                    Italian Pot Roast Recipe

3 1/2 to 4 pound rump or chuck beef roast       
1 teaspoon salt plus more to taste
1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper1/2 cup extra virgin olive oil
1 large carrot, diced (about 1 cup)
1 large celery stalk, diced (about 1 cup)
1 medium red onion, diced (1 to 1 1/2 cups)
2 garlic cloves, finely minced
2 Tbsp chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley
1 bay leaf
1 Tbsp finely chopped fresh sage
3 cups medium-bodied Italian red wine (we used a Barbera)   
8 Roma style plum tomatoes, seeded

1.  Trim some of the fat from the meat.  Pat dry with paper towels.  Season generously with the salt and pepper. Heat the oil in a large, heavy pot or Dutch oven over medium-high heat.  When the oil is hot, shimmering but not smoking, add the roast and cook, turning it a few times, until it is nicely browned on all sides, 10-12 minutes.  Transfer the meat to a platter.

2.  Reduce the heat to medium.  Add the carrot, celery, and onion.  Cook, stirring occasionally until the vegetables are golden brown and begin to stick to the bottom of the pan, 10-12 minutes.  Add the garlic, parsley, and sage, and stir until the herbs are lightly colored and fragrant, about 1 minute.  Add 1 cup of the wine and stir quickly, lifting up the richly browned caramelized vegetables that stick to the bottom of the pan.  When the wine is almost all evaporated and thickly coats the vegetables, return the meat to the pan and turn it over a few times to coat it with the savory base.

3.  Raise the heat to high, adding the remaining wine, the bay leaf,  and bring to a boil.  Cover the pot with a tight fitting lid, using a layer of tinfoil to allow a truly tight seal,  reduce the heat to low and simmer, turning and basting the meat every half hour or so, until the meat is very tender and flakes away when pierced with a fork, 3-4 hours.  Add the tomatoes when there is about an hour left.  When the meat is done, turn off the heat and let the roast sit in its juices for an hour.   Remove it and set it aside, keeping it warm.  You'll have some first rate sauce in the bottom of the braising pan, which you will strain and then return to the pan to reduce over high heat.

4.  Cut the meat into thick slices (it will probably fall apart), and place on warm serving dishes. Spoon the sauce over the meat and serve hot. Serve with risotto, herbed mashed potatoes, or polenta.

With the holidays upon us, a lot of us are looking for inspiration for the big dinners that are coming up.   If you're like me, an ordinary meat and potatoes meal just won't cut it.   You need to do something a little fun and a little festive.   So the holidays are a great time to trot out a few of those expensive, labor intensive recipes that provide such great rewards when presented to the table.  Here are three ideas:

Classic Chicken Kiev

Ingredients

1/3 cup unsalted butter   
½ tsp black pepper
1 teaspoon garlic powder
2 pounds skinless, boneless chicken breast halves
2 eggs
3 tablespoons water
1/4 teaspoon ground black pepper
1/2 teaspoon garlic powder
1 teaspoon dried dill weed
3/4 cup all-purpose flour
3/4 cup dry bread crumbs
2 cups vegetable oil for frying
1/2 lemon, sliced
1/4 cup chopped fresh parsley

Directions

1. Combine 1/3 cup butter, 1/2 teaspoon pepper and 1 teaspoon garlic powder.  On a 6x6 inch piece of aluminum foil, spread mixture to about 2x3 inches.  Place this mixture in the coldest section of your freezer and freeze until firm.  This can be done ahead of time.

2. Remove all fat from the chicken breast.  If using whole chicken breasts, cut them in half.  Place each chicken breast half between 2 pieces of waxed paper and using a mallet, pound carefully to about 1/4 inch thickness or less.

3. When butter mixture is firm, remove from freezer and cut into 6 equal pieces.  Place one piece of butter on each chicken breast. Fold in edges of chicken and then roll to encase the butter completely.  Secure the chicken roll with small skewers or toothpicks.

4. In a mixing bowl, beat eggs with water until fluffy.  In a separate bowl, mix together 1/4 teaspoon black pepper, 1/2 teaspoon garlic powder, dill weed and flour.  Coat the chicken well with the seasoned flour.  Dip the floured chicken in the egg mixture and then roll in the bread crumbs.  Place coated chicken on a shallow tray and chill in refrigerator for 30 minutes.

5. In a medium size deep frying pan, heat vegetable oil to medium-high.  Fry chicken for about 5 minutes then turn over and fry for 5 minutes longer or until the chicken is golden brown.  To test for doneness, cut into one of the rolled chicken breasts to make sure it doesn't have a pink interior.  Serve immediately, garnished with a sliced lemon twist and a sprinkling or parsley.

Crown Pork Roast with Cranberry, Orange, Apple Stuffing
and Port Wine Sauce

Ingredients

Stuffing:
1 tablespoon olive oil
3 onions, chopped
1/2 teaspoon ground cinnamon
1/2 teaspoon ground black pepper
1/4 teaspoon ground allspice
1 16-ounce package of cornbread stuffing mix
1 cup pecans, chopped
3 apples (such as Northern Spy), cored, not peeled and chopped
1/2-cup fresh cranberries, chopped
½ cup drained mandarin oranges

Crown Roast:
12 to16 rib crown pork roast
2 teaspoons salt
1 teaspoon ground black pepper

Sauce:
1 cup chicken broth
1/4-cup port
1 tablespoon butter

Cooking Instructions

For the stuffing:

1. In large skillet over medium heat, heat oil until shimmers.  Add onions and cook about 6 minutes, stirring occasionally, or until translucent.  Remove from heat and stir in cinnamon, pepper, and allspice.
2. In large bow,l combine onions, stuffing mix, pecans, apples, and cranberries.

Pork Roast:

1. Heat oven to 350 degrees F.  Sprinkle roast inside and out with salt and pepper.  Add stuffing to inside cavity; do not pack it.
2. Cook for about 2 hours 20 minutes, or until a thermometer in the thickest part of the meat registers 155 degrees.  Remove from oven and cover with aluminum foil.  Let rest at least 15 minutes.

Sauce:

Place roasting pan over medium heat; add broth and port.  Bring mixture to a boil, scraping up bits on the bottom of the pan.  Reduce liquid by about half.  Add butter and swirl to combine.


Teriyaki Salmon

Ingredients

1/2 cup vegetable oil
1/4 cup lemon juice
1/4 cup soy sauce
1 teaspoon ground mustard
1 teaspoon ground ginger
1/4 teaspoon garlic powder
4 (6 ounce) salmon steaks

Directions

In a large re-sealable plastic bag or shallow glass container, combine the first six ingredients; mix well.  Set aside 1/2 cup for basting and refrigerate.  Add salmon to remaining marinade; cover and refrigerate for 1-1/2 hours, turning once.  Drain and discard marinade. Place the salmon on a broiler pan.  Broil 3-4 in. from the heat for 5 minutes.  Brush with reserved marinade; turn and broil for 5 minutes or until fish flakes easily with a fork.  Brush with marinade.

Just before Thanksgiving, Al and his girlfriend Vickie had a chance to go to Rome...for both, the first time.   If you haven't been, Rome is a totally delightful city.   Along with the art and the history comes the food and wine, which are first rate.   And as Jerry already knows, it's a great place to eat.

Artichoke is real big in Rome:  stewed usually, but often cut up and used as a featured ingredient.   At Zeppelin Ristorante in Orvietto, Chef Lorenzo Polegri taught us how to make pasta, and serve it with an artichoke sauce.

His technique was to simmer cut up artichoke with onions and garlic in white wine and chicken broth.   Cook it down, add a few pinches of thyme and mint, and pour over handmade pasta...the fettucine shape seems to be best.

One dish that made a huge impression was aromatic spinach, from Tempio de Bacco in Rome, done in the manner of Emilia-Romagna.   Here is Al's best guess on the recipe:

       Aromatic Spinach
A Radio Kitchen Original Recipe       
           
1 pound fresh (not frozen) spinach
1/3 stick of butter
1 tbs food grade lavender, crushed
1 tbs dried rosemary leaves, crushed   
grated parmesan cheese
salt to taste

1.  Cut up the spinach with a knife, including the stems, making the average size about 3/4 " square.

2.  Prepare a large pot of boiling, salted water, and a large pot of ice cold water.  Place the cut up spinach in a large sieve, and immerse it in the boiling water.  With a wooden spoon, push all the spinach down into the water.  Blanch for no more than thirty seconds.  Lift the sieve out of the hot water, and plunge it into the cold water.

3.  When the spinach has cooled down, lift the sieve again, and allow the spinach to drain.  Shake the sieve vigorously to dislodge the excess water.  Try not to compact the spinach.

4.  In a small sauce pan, melt about 14 sticks of butter over very low heat.  Sprinkle about two thirds of the crushed herbs into the butter, and allow it to infuse the butter.

5.  Heat a large non-stick skillet over medium heat, and toss the drained spinach in.  Sautee the spinach over low heat, stirring frequently, burning off any excess liquid. Before the spinach starts to wilt, pour the melted herbed butter over it, and toss thoroughly.  Sprinkle the parmesan cheese, the remaining herbs and salt over the re-heated spinach and mix thoroughly.

6.  Serve immediately, it makes four servings.