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Spring Pickling and Canning

May 17,2016 - Radio Kitchen - Spring Pickling and Canning

One of the slight frustrations of springtime is that it doesn't go on forever.  So many of our favorite vegetables come and go so quickly that we wish there were a way to, well, preserve the moment.  But Chef Jerry Pellegrino of Schola Cooking School has got some techniques that allow us to do just that.

                                                Spring Pickling

                                    Chefs Amy von Lange & Jerry Pellegrino

                                                Pickled Ramps

MAKES 1 PINT

  • 8 ounces ramps
  • 2 dried red chiles
  • 2 bay leaves
  • 2 teaspoons fennel seeds
  • 1 teaspoon black peppercorns
  • 1 cup white wine vinegar ½ cup sugar
  • 1 tablespoon kosher salt

  1. Trim greens from ramps; reserve for another use—like pesto! Pack bulbs into a heatproof 1-pint jar along with dried red chiles, bay leaves, fennel seeds, and black peppercorns.
  2. Bring white wine vinegar, sugar, salt, and 1 cup water to a boil in a medium saucepan, stirring to dissolve.
  3. Pour over ramps to cover. Seal jar. Let cool, then chill.

                                                Pickled Asparagus

(It is worth seeking out the Ball 1.5 pint canning jars for asparagus. They allow you to leave the asparagus long but not can large numbers of them!)

Ingredients

  • About 5 pounds asparagus, thin to medium-thick
  • 2 ¼ cups white wine vinegar 
  • 4 tablespoons salt
  • 6 garlic cloves, slivered
  • 1 teaspoon dill seed 
  • 1 teaspoon mustard seed
  • 1 bay leaf (preferably fresh but dry will work) per jar
  • ¼ teaspoon coriander seed

  1. Cut bottoms off asparagus to make them fit upright in a 1.5 pint jar.
  2. Asparagus tips should be at least ½ inch below lid. (Reserve bottoms for another use.)
  3. Pour about 2 inches water into a skillet large enough to hold asparagus lying down; bring to a boil.
  4. In batches, blanch asparagus: place in skillet, bring water back to a boil, and then immediately remove and run under very cold water or dunk in ice water. Set aside to drain.
  5. Combine remaining ingredients in a saucepan with 2 ¼ cups water and bring to a boil.
  6. Stir occasionally and cook just until salt dissolves; turn off heat. Prepare 4 clean, hot 1.5 pint jars and bands, and new lids. (Dip in boiling water, or run through dishwasher.)
  7. When jars are dry but still hot, pack asparagus into them, wedging spears in tightly.
  8. There should be enough for 3 or 4 full jars: do not half-fill jars.  Pour in vinegar solution, just to barely cover tips of asparagus.
  9. Make sure to leave ½ inch air space above vinegar solution. Distribute garlic slivers and spices evenly among jars.
  10. Wipe rims with a clean paper towel dipped in hot water, place lids on top and screw on bands. (Not too tight, just firmly closed.)
  11. Prepare a boiling-water bath in a deep pot with a rack. Place jars on rack and pour water over them, making sure water covers jars by 2 to 3 inches.
  12. Bring water back to a rolling boil over high heat, start a timer for 10 minutes, then reduce heat and gently boil.
  13. When timer goes off, turn off heat and wait 5 minutes before removing jars with jar lifter or tongs.
  14. Let cool on counter, untouched, 4 to 6 hours. After 12 to 24 hours, check seals: lift each jar up by the lid, and press the lid to make sure the center is sucked down tightly.
  15. Store in a cool, dark, dry place (not refrigerator) for 4 weeks before using, or up to 1 year. Refrigerate after opening. To serve, drain off pickling liquid and arrange asparagus on plates.

                                    Pickled Vegetable Condiment

Ingredients

  • Vegetables – these can be whatever you like. Below are some suggestions. This recipe is for pickling 5 cups of vegetables, so as long as you start with a total of 5 cups, the mix is up to you.
  • Green peas, fresh
  • Radish, sliced into thin disks
  • Baby Carrots
  • Green chilies, cut into thin discs
  • Lime & Lemon – cut into thin discs
  • Ginger, shaved thin on a mandolin
  • Garlic, sliced thin
  • 1 medium spring onion, cut into ½ inch dice

Spices

  • 2 Tablespoons Turmeric powder
  • 1 Tablespoon Fenugreek
  • 1 Tablespoon mustard seeds
  • 1 teaspoon ground
  • Whole red chilies – the number used depends on the level of heat you want. We use between 3 and 6 small medium hot chilies.
  • 1 Tablespoon Fennel seeds
  • 1 Tablespoon Cumin seeds
  • 1 Tablespoon Coriander seeds

Whole Spice Mix:

  • 5 whole cloves
  • 3 whole green cardamom pods
  • 10 whole black peppercorns
  • 1 cinnamon stick, lightly crushed
  • 1 Tablespoon nigella seeds
  • ½ cup salt
  • 1 cup Mustard oil (or any bland oil such as canola will work)
  • ½ cup White vinegar

  1. Wash and cut all the vegetables (except onion) in desired size as mentioned. If you want you can keep the size of vegetables bigger, provided you have large jars to store the pickles.
  2. Dry the vegetables thoroughly with kitchen towels. In a big bowl, add all the vegetables (except onion), salt and turmeric.
  3. Mix it very well and allow to sit for at least 4 hours or preferably overnight. Once the vegetables have shed their water, drain the salted liquid by placing the vegetables in a large colander.
  4. Line a baking sheet with paper towels and spread the vegetables out in an even layer. Place them in an oven set on the lowest temperature possible and allow to dry for one hour.
  5. Dry roast the red chilies, cumin seeds, coriander seeds and fennel seeds in a pan set over low heat until they become aromatic, about ten minutes.
  6. Grind them to a fine powder.
  7. Heat 1 tbsp of oil, add the mustard seeds, fenugreek seeds and nigella seeds and let it splutter.
  8. Then add the onions and lightly sauté them till the onions become translucent.
  9. Switch off the heat and to this add further the ground spice mix Let it stand for two -three minutes.
  10. Separately heat the remaining oil and add this to the oil-onion-spice mix.
  11. Place all the vegetables in a large mixing bowl, add the whole spices (cloves, cardamom, peppercorns and cinnamon, then add the warm oil and spice mix.
  12. Combine well then stir in the vinegar. Once it is cooled enough, store the pickle in air tight jars.
  13. The pickle should be immersed in oil, if not then heat some more oil, cool it and then pour directly in the jar. Oil acts as a barrier between pickles and air. It inhibits the fungal growth.
  14. This pickle will last for months in the refrigerator and the flavor improves with age.

                                                Radish in Chile Oil

Ingredients

  • 2 lbs radishes, washed and cut into ¼ inch julienne
  • ½ cup chopped ramps or spring onion
  • 4 tablespoons kosher salt
  • 3 tablespoons soy sauce
  • 3 tablespoons Sambal
  • 2 tablespoons of sesame oil
  • 1 tablespoon of sugar

  1. Mix the radishes and salt together in a large bowl and allow to stand at room temperature for 1 hour.
  2. Drain the radishes, rinse briefly in cold water and dry on paper towels. In a sauce pan set over medium heat, bring the soy sauce and sugar to a boil. Add the ramps and cook for one minute.
  3. Remove from the heat and stir in the Sambal and sesame oil. Stir the oil and onion mixture over the radishes and pack the radishes with all of the liquid into a jar with an airtight lid.
  4. Seal the jar and allow to sit on the counter at room temperature for 24 hours. Refrigerate for three days before using. This can be stored in the refrigerator for up to 4 weeks.
Al Spoler, well known to WYPR listeners as the wine-loving co-host of "Cellar Notes" has had a long-standing parallel interest in cooking as well. Al has said, the moment he started getting serious about Sunday night dinners was the same moment he started getting serious about wine. Over the years, he has benefited greatly from being a member of the Cork and Fork Society of Baltimore, a gentlemen's dining club that serves black tie meals cooked by the members themselves who are some of Baltimore's most accomplished amateur cooks.
Executive Chef Jerry Pellegrino of Corks restaurant is fascinated by food and wine, and the way they work in harmony on the palate. His understanding of the two goes all the way to the molecular level, drawing on his advanced education in molecular biology. His cuisine is simple and surprising, pairing unexpected ingredients together to work with Corks' extensive wine offerings.