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Spring Peas

April 7, 2015 - Radio Kitchen - Spring Peas

Last week we talked about one of the Rites of Spring:  the enjoyment of Spring lamb.  Today we'd like to cover another harbinger of the season, and that would be Spring peas,  the very embodiment of this most tender of seasons.

Here in Maryland, we can plant peas while the weather is still cool.  As soon as the soil heats up to 50°, the seeds can go into the ground, and 50-60 days later they are mature enough to harvest (many pea varieties have been developed to be fast-maturing). 

Of course we love our fresh picked Spring peas, but this is one vegetable that does very well frozen.  So while you're waiting for our Maryland farmers to harvest the first crop of peas, you can do pretty well with the frozen varieties.  To approximate the tenderness of the fresh pea, however, you need to boil them a lot longer than you think you need.

Although in olden times the pea was allowed to dry and was used as a bean of sorts, today it is picked while it is still tender and then rushed to market.  In 18th century France and England, the eating of the first peas of the year was a celebration in itself.  

The French concept of the "petit pois," or baby pea, is with us today.  And thanks to the clever horticulturists in Old England who worked hard to produce new varieties that would  produce maximum flavor in a minimum of time, we have the "English Pea."

The modern pea is a global traveler, and it is present in nearly every temperate climate.  Whether eaten young or dried, the peas are truly ubiquitous.

The "pease porridge" of nursery rhymes is nothing more than a thick soup made from dried peas.  Split pea soup is an American staple where it's often flavored with ham.

I've had the pleasure of eating "mushy peas" in Britain along with my fish and chips, and I had no trouble understanding why they are so much loved over there.

Peas show up regularly as a supporting ingredient in curries, stews and stir-fries all over the world.  In addition, their close cousins "snow peas" and "snap peas" are often served raw and in the pod because of their sweet and pleasant flavor.

One staple dish that keeps those Brits going is the Shepherd's Pie, a hearty concoction of mashed potatoes, ground lamb, and peas.  Here's a good recipe from Epicurious:

                Classic Shepherd's Pie

1 tbs vegetable oil
1 large onion, peeled and chopped
1 large carrot, peeled and chopped
1 pound ground lamb (or mix with half of another meat)
1 cup beef broth
1 tsp tomato paste
1 tsp dried rosemary
1 tbs chopped parsley
1 cup peas, fresh or frozen
2 pounds russet potatoes, peeled and cut into chunks
6 tbs unsalted butter
1/2 cup milk
salt to taste

1. Preheat oven to 350°.

2.  In a large sauté pan, over medium high heat, heat the oil, then add the onion, carrot and meat.  Cook until browned, 8 to 10 minutes.

3.  Drain the fat and add the broth, tomato paste, and herbs.  Simmer until the juices thicken, about 10 minutes, then add the peas.  When done, pour into a 1 1/2 quart baking dish and set aside.

4.  Boil the potatoes in salted water, cooking until tender, about 20 minutes.  Drain.

5.  Mash the potatoes with the butter, milk, and salt.

6.  Spread the mashed potatoes over the meat mixture, then crosshatch the top with a fork.  Bake until golden, about 35 minutes.

Most pea soup recipes call for you to purée the peas at some point.  Mixed with a little cream, you can get a gorgeous pale green color.  But here's a nice recipe that lets you keep the peas intact:

                Pea and Barley Soup

1/2 cup pearl barley
3 cups low sodium chicken broth
2 dozen pearl onions, skinned
1 cup fresh Spring peas
zest of a lemon
salt to taste

1.  In a sauce pan, cook the barley in the broth, bringing it first to a boil, then reducing the heat and letting it cook for about 20 minutes.  Add the onions and let it cook another 10 minutes.

2.  Finally, add the peas, and let the whole soup cook over a very low flame for another 10 minutes.

3.  Stir in the lemon zest and add salt to taste.  The soup should be thickened by the starch from the barley.

Here's an idea so simple, it doesn't require a recipe:  consider making a nice polenta with peas and crumbled bacon added in, along with a little grated parmesan cheese.

And for you impoverished students on a budget (like I was at one time), I loved pouring a cup of frozen peas into my tuna noodle casserole, along with that old standby, Cream of Celery Soup.

And of course, the simplest and best way to enjoy peas is to quickly boil them,  strain them, and dress them with butter and salt.  It can't be beat.
 

Al Spoler, well known to WYPR listeners as the wine-loving co-host of "Cellar Notes" has had a long-standing parallel interest in cooking as well. Al has said, the moment he started getting serious about Sunday night dinners was the same moment he started getting serious about wine. Over the years, he has benefited greatly from being a member of the Cork and Fork Society of Baltimore, a gentlemen's dining club that serves black tie meals cooked by the members themselves who are some of Baltimore's most accomplished amateur cooks.
Executive Chef Jerry Pellegrino of Corks restaurant is fascinated by food and wine, and the way they work in harmony on the palate. His understanding of the two goes all the way to the molecular level, drawing on his advanced education in molecular biology. His cuisine is simple and surprising, pairing unexpected ingredients together to work with Corks' extensive wine offerings.